[TR] Big Four - Dry Creek 12/11/2009

[franklinb]

Trip: Big Four - Dry Creek

 

Date: 12/11/2009

 

Trip Report:

Talking with Tom, I saw an opportunity for Big Four. With ice and low snow (and minimal avy) I didn't think I'd see as favorable conditions for quite a while. Erin has had this hanging on her and with a little persuasion talked me into giving it a go.

 

With the short amount of daylight we figured we'd be starting and ending in the dark. A good use for my Mt bike headlamp. Was a bonus to have a "bright" light.

MP 27 direct to river, follow river east (up river) .4m to a large old log to cross. Then directly west to intersect Dry Creek. Up dry creek on the rightish side til hit the cliff (all in the dark).

 

Put on crampons for some mixed granite, ice and snow. Across a frozen stream, up a snow field and right up the "Hidden Gulley. Low snow so on and off of snow, rock & ice. Top of gulley didn't go with a gap in the middle . Looking back and to the left (as Tom suggested) a shorter gulley took us up above the lower cliffs to the mid snowfield.

 

 

Dawn had started and no lamps needed. We headed up then east over a frozen creek then up and left to the bottom on the upper gulley. The pitch had been gradual and looking up we could see it was steep from here on out (~2000 vert). Just below the cliffs on the right side (west) we could see the steep ramp that Tom's group used to access the NF.

 

 

The snow was firm enough to need two to three strong kicks to make a toe hold. My calves got a good work out -nothing like 2k of front pointing and kick stepping to give a workout. I'm very glad I took my boots into Custom Boot Service and had the toes pushed out. No more toe bang while kicking in.

 

Coming to a steeper section I tried going left, but felt uncomfortable with the thin cover. We worked back down and went up a chimney with frozen WI. Glad I'd stopped by and picked up a few shorter screws at Pro Mountain Sports, ice took them well and was even thick enough for a 22cm. Above the chimney the pitch continued with some softer snow. At the saddle we followed the ridge and the protected the final traverse to the Summit ridge. Ridge took a picket and in the middle thin snow so placed some small nuts in a crack. Could have used a lost arrow, but the nuts were fast and easy.

 

We summited at 1:30. Erin all smiles having finally made it to the top of B4. Coverage on teh true summit was thin and the summit cairn was obvious. a little snow clearing and we found a broken register filled with frozen water and paper. I brought it back dried it out and recovered the list. I'll take it into the Mountaineers for archival and hopefully someone going up will place a new reg.

 

We ate, high fived, a round of summit photos, wandered around to the other summits. BTW, the further west one is lower, though recorded on Peakbagger.com as the summit. Walking over to the ledge it was a straight shot down to the base and parking lot. I think we saw two cars, but nobody waved back.

 

We packed up (that brass frozen reg had a heft to it), and headed down our same route. Rapped the ice chimney and downclimbed a majority of the upper gulley. Never saw the lower part in the daylight. The crux was downclimbing granite into a frozen creek then across to a thin sloping ledge that ended. A jump without a slip and landing on a small snow patch in balance –not a place to tumble. All gloriously fun in the dark. We hit the log crossing spot on. Trickiest part was avoiding the swamp that is east of the route from river to car. The river takes a bed so it is disorienting the direction. Erin had her compass out and we came up within 50 feet of the car.

 

This was a fun trip with some nice challenges –a little of everything (except skiing –did that the next day :-).

 

More pictures and TR on NWH (Link)

 

-fwb

 

 

Gear Notes:

Had hard snow -60m rope, crampons, ice screws (more snow could avoid the WI, pickets.

 

Approach Notes:

From MP 27 go direct to river (short cutting will et you in a swamp). Follow river .4 miles up stream (left) to a large old log to cross. Then head due west to hit Dry Creek.

[jpark42]

Looks like things went well, Erin. Glad to see you guys had success.