[TR] Leavenworth - FA: The Goatee 12/5/2009

[alps]

As you can see from the picture, the ice was a little bit fatter (not much though). Anyway, well thick enough for fun climbing and still growing - cold and running water!

[jcp]

Climbed it yesterday - was a fun day out despite the unpleasant wind. I like the third pitch... BTW, better don't follow our descent tracks. I'm sure there is a much better way down!

 

Is that third pitch any fatter? It was really wet when we were on it? I would be interested in seeing a pic if it was any different.

 

I got on it today, and the third pitch is totally fat. It is still kind of aerated, but at the same time it's fat enough to sink the pick, or even hook some of the deeper icicles. I only placed screws on the third pitch, and it felt good enough to solo. And believe me, I am no hardman. It was a lot of fun. I did follow out the footsteps for the descent until they seemed to run out. We definitely ended up going down some spicy terrain! I think with a double it could be rapped, though I would only do a v-thread on the first pitch. The second can be down climbed, and on the third pitch there is a tree to the right that could be a rap anchor.

 

Overall it was a fun climb, and I'm happy to have gotten on it. There is a couple camping up there tonight to get an early start on it tomorrow. I am meeting up with them again and bringing a new ice climber there. It is a great climb for it. Get on it before there is too much snow.

[AlpineMonkey]

Aaron and I just walked down with zero problems which took about 10 min. to get back to our packs at the bottom. No raps and no sketchy stuff. Not sure where you guys are running into probelms? Are you trying to stay too close to the route when your heading down?

[jcp]

No, we ended up traversing pretty far to the skiers right, probably too far. There are now two rap stations plus a short walk off. You will need two ropes to get off the third pitch (first rap) and a single rope for the second rap. There were 5 parties up there today and we all appreciated it. Not sure what our problem was on the walk off, but it was definitely sketch when I tried it yesterday.

[jcp]

Either way it is quickly becoming a favorite climb out here. It is definitely in great shape. Good job on the find!

[alps]

Don't know where we went wrong on the descent- we didn't stay close to the route at all. Anyway, I think it took us more time to descend than to climb up Nevertheless, a fun day out!

[shannonpahl]

Today we went to use the tail end of the cold spell and climb this route. Its a great climb! The ice was phat and plastic in places. Its getting traffic - just follow the obvious boot path. We did it in 4.5 pitches using a 60m rope, which works out well getting you to obvious good belays. Thanks for discovering a great new route!

[lazyalpinist]

Just did this climb yesterday. It was fun. And fatter still. A bit of slush on top from the few centimeters of snow that fell Sunday night. Were able to sink plenty of long screws.

 

I think the issues with the walk off have to do with snow accumulation. If you look at the FA pics, there is little to no snow on the walk off. Plenty on snow the rock when we did it yesterday. Without the snow, it would be more obvious and a litle less sketchy. We actually followed fresh goat tracks back to the base of the route.

 

Pics show the fat third pitch and snow on the walk off.

 

[img:left]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyfalnydYyI/AAAAAAAAJO0/k9iab8mNgl0/DSCN2809.jpg[/img]

 

[img:left]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_93XPnSTQ19w/SyfX8TWtRMI/AAAAAAAAJNQ/a_Fs8rXC32I/s640/IMG_9116.JPG[/img]

 

[peter57]

Fun climb. Still in today, Saturday. Good find, but to describe as 3 70m pitches is not good description.

 

Followed some guys we also followed on Chair last Saturday. Great minds think alike.

 

1st step was mushy and 10 -15 m

 

2nd step 2 minus, we solo down climbed it. Maybe 30 M, but not very technical.

 

3rd step is fun 40m Solid under the snice. takes screws well.

 

Didn't bother going up to the 4th step. Looked fun and alpine but wanted to get back.

 

 

[AlpineMonkey]

We climbed it in exactly 3 70m rope lengths; what you climbed it in was definitely much fater conditions then when Aaron and I found it. We never said it was hard. Compare our initial pics of the last pitch with the most recent pics.

[unklehuck]

Climbed The Goatee 1st thing this morning. Seems like a good portion of it was covered in 8" of heavy wet snow. Gang soloed first two pitches, then roped up at the base of the third and ran laps while getting pelted with snow sliding out of the surrounding gullies. Upper pitch was in fair condition and took screws pretty well, rest of the climb was in rather rough shape - mushy and wet but still took a tool well enough.

 

Alpinemonkey - thanks for digging this thing up. Appreciate the effort put into scouting it out for the rest of us to enjoy.