danhelmstadter Posted October 13, 2009 Posted October 13, 2009 (edited) im gonna get some used rambos or something of the like -- as i understand it, monos are preferable for mixed climbing cause the mono point is better for rock (i'm more interested in stricktly ice use) -- and also apparently easier to insert into the hole left by pick, is this on target? do they also reduce "plating" on shitty ice? are duel points more secure? Edited October 13, 2009 by danhelmstadter Quote
Farrgo Posted October 13, 2009 Posted October 13, 2009 Monos are better for mixed cragging for sure. I'm not sure they are much of an advantage for real mountain mixed climbing. I like duals on ice but that's more about stability. The real answer is that when you learn better technique you'll kick less and place more. That will reduce plating the most. Quote
danhelmstadter Posted October 14, 2009 Author Posted October 14, 2009 I shoulda read this -- posted by Dane, on another recent poon thread -- "With a good rigid boot sole and some ankle support I find the Grivel G12 or BD Sabretooth Pro climb as good as anything out there. Petzl Sarken is another I'd like to climb in along the same lines. Dual front points (vertical or horizontal) will seldom be a hinderance even on mixed. Unless you are doing a lot of hard modern bolted mixed, a mono point like the Dart is limiting imo on pure ice and most alpine. Because they lack the support of two front points they can shear out on less than stellar ice or with less than perfect technique. The Rambo offers a different version of the mono point and the stability on most ice of dual front points. It is a trick set up. Easy to see why Turgeon choose it on the M/C. But if I was limited to one pair of crampons the Rambo or Dart would not be that one pair." Quote
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