Is the Road to the Coleman Glacier on Baker Open?

[Josh Lewis]

Is the Road to the Coleman Glacier on Baker Open? Just wondering, I heard a while back that it was closed, but was wondering if perhaps now it might be opened.

[marc_leclerc]

Yes its open... I climbed at the seracs yesterday. however I wouldnt recommend tou go on the glacier/attempt the summit right now with your limited experience right now Josh, the routes look like they are in brutal shape at the moment, very broken up.

[Josh Lewis]

Thanks for the heads up. Mabe next year.

[Alasdair]

I know nothing about Josh and his experience, but the colman demming is not in bad shape at all. There was a ton of snow last year and it is all still around in the areas that it needs to be. There were no crevasse issues at all last week. The parts of the route that are usually a problem are not this year. The two issues on the route right now are getting on to the glacier, which can be easily bypassed with a 1/4 mile walk to the far right hand side of the glacier from hogsback camp, and the roman wall. The roman wall is melted out. It is icy and there is a lot of rock fall hazard on it right now. A traverse from the col to the crater and then going up there is a likely better option than going up from the ridge. Also the north ridge was climbed two weeks ago. It was not totally strait forward but it was doable.

[JBo6]

Mark, how are the seracs looking this year? Might be headed up next weekend if they are good.

[Alasdair]

There is pretty good serac climbing right now.

[marc_leclerc]

Serac climbing is quite decent at the moment....

 

there was an excellent serac in particular that we found..... about 105-110 degrees for about 70ft.... had to borrow a pair of Nomics to climb the thing

[JBo6]

Good to hear, might have to bother a few other things along with Nomics to get up it. Maybe a few more screws and some etriers.