Leavenworth TR Solo Spot?

[Stopgo]

I'm going to be in Lworth this weekend and will have a little time to get the hang of doing some aid soloing on TR. Any suggestions of some easy, yet un-crowded spots to set up a TR on and aid on? I won't have a ton of time so something close to the road would be great. Plus I'll be working out the bugs of the system and don't want to be in anyone's way . . .

 

Any suggestions?

[Sherri]

There's a nice list of topropes around WA here: Climbwashington.com

 

Here's the L'worth excerpt from that webpage. Might be somethere there to get you started:

"Leavenworth

There are many excellent toprope problems in the Leavenworth area, especially on the many boulders and short walls of Icicle Creek Canyon, the toproping capital of Washington. Here are some of the favorites.

 

Dish Crack (5.10c) * A thin crack on a convex wall on the buttress just up from Mountaineers' Buttress. Scramble up ledges to set up a rope; bring some gear and a long sling.

The Prow (5.11b) ** The steep prow on the left side of Bolt Rock. There are some slabby toprope problems on the road face.

Squealer, aka East of Java (5.12b) * A super thin, overhanging finger crack with a crux mantel, just above the Snow Creek trail parking lot. Short but severe.

La Cucaracha (5.10d) ** The thin crack line on the right side of Madsen's Buttress. A lead route, but usually toproped. Bring a sling and a few cams to set up a toprope.

Williams' Twelve (5.12a) ** A diagonal seam/flake on the short wall just above the road past Snow Creek trailhead. One hard, sequential move.

Deb's Crack (5.10d) ** The left-leaning, overhanging finger and hand crack splitting the boulder just up and left from Williams' Twelve. A pump.

Zig-Zag (5.11a/b) ** A zig-zagging flake and face problem left of Deb's Crack.

Bruce's Boulder Face (5.11b) *** The steep slab facing the creek. There are many good, sometimes contrived slab and crack toprope problems on Bruce's Boulder, from 5.2 to 5.12. This area is often very crowded.

Barney's Rubble Slab (5.7) *** The friction slab on the right side of the Barney's Rubble formation. A 5.10a variation climbs the blanker slab on the left. There are many good topropes on Barney’s Rubble, from 5.4 to 5.12. This area is often very crowded.

A Slice of Pie (5.11b) * A short face problem hidden behind the big flake right of the slab problem on Barney's Rubble. You need a couple of chocks to set up a rope.

Z-Crack (5.10c/d) *** A toprope may be set up on this route and Meat Grinder by scrambling up the chimney on the right. A great route for laps.

Meat Grinder, aka Alcove Crack (5.9+) *** The wide cracks right of Z-Crack, also frequently toproped.

Dogleg Crack (5.8) *** The crack to the right of Meat Grinder You can hike all the way around, or climb a Class 4-5 chimney up from the top of Z-Crack to set up a rope on this crack. A 5.10a face variation on the right is also popular.

Rat Creek Boulder Arch (5.10c) ** The arching flake on the steep face of Rat Creek Boulder (referred to as Hook Creek Boulder in Kramar's guide). There are several other good topropes on Rat Creek Boulder, from 5.8 to 5.11.

Rat Creek Boulder Face (5.13?) This is the super thin face just left of the arch. Somebody told me he climbed this back in 1980 or so. It's possible. Try it and see what you think.

Atlas Shrugged (5.11b/c) * An overhanging seam on the side of the real Rat Creek Boulder. Getting there is a bit tricky these days, due to access issues. Bring some gear to set an anchor.

Baby's On Fire (5.13a) * A super thin overhanging seam to the left of Atlas Shrugged.

Classic Crack (5.8+) ** The very popular jam crack just up the road from Eightmile Campground. Class 4 ledge scrambling to the anchors.

Twin Cracks (5.8) ** The cracks just left of Classic Crack. A 5.9+ start via the offwidth is interesting.

Doin' Dishes (5.11c/d) * A thin face problem just right of Classic Crack. Often dirty.

Deception Crack (5.9) * The thin, angling crack on the right side of Classic Crack Buttress. Very shallow, with slippery rock. There are a couple of good 5.10 topropes to the right of Deception Crack.

Carnival Crack (5.10d) ** The big off-width across the road from Classic Crack Buttress. Hardly anybody ever leads it.

Trapeze (5.12a) ** The shallow cracks just left of Carnival Crack.

Little Red Corvette (5.11d) * A thin crack and dike on the creekside buttress across from Bridge Creek Campground. In late summer, when the creek is very low, you can rappel in to a boulder to start the route. If you fail, you have to batman or jumar up the rope. Otherwise, the only escape is desperate wading across submerged boulders.

Every Inch is Hard (5.12a) * This is the overhanging thin crack on the granite buttress overhanging US Highway 2 just around the first curve west of Leavenworth. The crack almost literally overhangs the highway. It is not often climbed, for good reason. "