t_rutl Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Glacier Creek Road is slighted for a possible 3 day opening to cars over Labor Day weekend...hopefully... then it will be closed yet again for paving for an undisclosed period of time... if you want to hit anything on the north side of Baker w/o a substanial approach September 4-6 would be your shot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted August 28, 2009 Share Posted August 28, 2009 (edited) I was up on the north side of Baker for an attempt on the Coleman Glacier/North Ridge route with rocky_joe on the August 7-9 weekend, and it's a bit of a horror show up there right now. We ended up bailing just before the cutoff while, as we debated how to get across the (wide open) bergshrund, a massive stream of debris came funneling down our planned ascent route. Whiteout conditions on the descent made getting off the Coleman into a bit of an epic, with some really sketchy snowbridge crossings. I can't imagine things are going to be any better over Labor Day weekend, to say the least. Also, if anyone with extra-large balls does want to give this route a go, I would not recommend the high approach from the base of Colfax Peak. We ended up having to make an unprotected traverse across the Roman Nose which in addition to being dangerous was incredibly annoying. Stay on snow and ice at all costs. Edited August 28, 2009 by Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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