eldiente Posted August 25, 2009 Posted August 25, 2009 (edited) Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - West Face Date: 8/25/2009 Trip Report: I'll add to the long list of TRs for this route, the race is on to see which route gets more TRs, CBR or Stuart? Pictures here. Saturday night we camped on the beach right below the approach gully, one of the better camp spots I've ever had. It was rather cold Sunday morning in the shade and we slept in till about 9:00 AM. The approach turns out to be mellow (but steep) and we moved along well. Made it back to the lake camp by 5:00PM and made a quick dash for the car. The route was dry and really bloody cold, my hands were numb for many pitches. I fell at the 5.12 move but aside from that climbed the route without too much drama. Overall a good route, a bit smaller than I was expecting. We climbed it in a total of 7 pitches (linking P1 and P2) and had a blast. Although sort of a short route, some of those pitches are crazy fun and not to be missed. There is tons of beta already out there, here is a few more thoughts. ( I feel like if you read all of the TRs out there you you can't claim an on sight on your 8.a card. Ha!) P1 and P2 (link) Short pitches, why would you break these into two? Climb short 5.10 crack, and then do a chimney to the base of 5.9 crack. P3 5.9 low angle crack for a full 200 feet, just fun cruising terrain. P4. Scramble Easy 5th to base of the amazing crack under roof. P5.5.11- or 5.10+ish. Yes this crack is a good as everyone says. Maybe the best in WA. From the belay it looks not so steep. Nope, it is actually a tad over-hanging in spots and on you! Some pitches get too much hype but this one deserves all the praise. There is some hard moves (rattly fingers) but after every hard section there is a perfect jam. Move fast past the crappy stuff and place gear from the good jams. Stopping in those bad jams would be pumpy. The finish to the belay is a combo of fun flake jugs and jams to gain the ledge. Belay has two fixed nuts and two old pins. P6. 5.11 roof traverse. Very wild and I thought it was harder than the short 5.12 section higher up. Maybe the position makes it feel harder, very airy. I follow this pitch and end up cutting me feet and campusing through a few moves like an idiot. Tricky stuff as my head is shoved right against the roof make it hard to move, and the feet are slick. Short pitch, 30 feet or so of harshness. P7. Another amazing pitch. Steep 5.9 hands on clean stone leads to the 5.12 roof thingy. Save a #4 for the roof and do the moves. I fall from stupidity at this spot. The problem is that again my head is shoved in the roof and I can't see the hold I'm trying to grab. Doh! It is just a little boulder problem, heel hook out left and punch left for an undercling finger lock and the move is done. Taking off your helmet would help you see around the roof for the move your looking for. A hard move yes, but no sustained at all so easy for the grade at 5.12. P8. 5.9+ OW pitch. Who knows what the actual grade is. The start is indeed tough but it is only about 15 feet of thrashing before it lets up into less desperate thrashing. The start is overhanging wide stuff with a hand crack in the back. I end up putting my leg above me and lock in the knee, this gives me enough reach to yard up on some good jams. Upside down knee jamming? Yep. There is lots of good gear on this pitch so it isn't scary, just a lot of work. Keep #2s and #3s handy for the overhanging section. Scramble to summit. [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XNueStDVX8c/SpQOnwHdQ-I/AAAAAAAAF2Y/nyvXMrK523I/s640/P1000505.JPG[/img] Good morning. [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XNueStDVX8c/SpQOvMOmEfI/AAAAAAAAF2k/svrAT3sLWb8/s640/P1000507.JPG[/img] Stuart looking a bit dry. Global Warming anyone? [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_XNueStDVX8c/SpQPHRWEVqI/AAAAAAAAF3c/lmLp7FqJmAI/s512/P1000513.JPG[/img] This crack is awful, don't ever climb it. [img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_XNueStDVX8c/SpQPI5EsunI/AAAAAAAAF3k/_3Y2LjdfuVo/s512/P1000514.JPG[/img] I just learned how to build anchors the day before, how's this look? [img:center]http://lh4.ggpht.com/_XNueStDVX8c/SpQPJycYxPI/AAAAAAAAF3w/s4qUyhnFtTQ/s640/P1000515.JPG[/img] Under the roof. [img:center]http://lh3.ggpht.com/_XNueStDVX8c/SpQPNVmpYkI/AAAAAAAAF4E/g_tWBI0nqqU/s640/P1000518.JPG[/img] 5.12 pitch (er 5.9+) [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_XNueStDVX8c/SpQPOa9XTzI/AAAAAAAAF4M/WjV1Lt_rAQk/s512/P1000519.JPG[/img] About to pull the 5.12 boulder move. [img:center]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_XNueStDVX8c/SpQPQ8Qyq1I/AAAAAAAAF4g/DhbRCx9yAHA/s640/P1000523.JPG[/img] Gear Notes: Doubles from Yellow Alien to #3 BD. Triples on the .75 might be handy for the long crack below the roof. I placed one nut at a belay. Cold weather gear, route gets no sun. If you bring a pack, be prepared to drag it behind you in the OW pitch. Approach Notes: The lake is low right now so we were able to walk up the beach and go straight-up a rock filled gully with no bushwhacking. 1.5-2 hours the base of route. Edited September 2, 2009 by eldiente Quote
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