[TR] Mt. Spickard - South Slope 8/22/2009

[Le Piston]

Trip: Mt. Spickard - South Slope

 

Date: 8/22/2009

 

Trip Report:

This was a grudge match climb. After getting turned back last year and being told by my partner's girlfriend that we were pussies if we didn't make it this year...it was on with Mt Spickard. First I must thank whoever went in with a chainsaw and made the approach hike so much nicer. We were able to drive all the way into the trailhead with my 4 wheel drive...saved a mile or so both ways. The falls in the afternoon was really flowing and we were soaked getting up the 2 fixed ropes. We pulled into Ouzell Lake to find another party there to climb Mt. Redoubt. After setting up camp, eating, and gearing up, we settled in for a nice sleep. We awoke at 0530 to socked in clouds, but ate breakfast and started the long scree slog to the glacier on the south side route with great views of Redoubt We had a little route-finding problem by following one of the guidebook reports and went too high before going climbers right to the moraine leading to the glacier. The glacier was quite hard ice and took some whacking to make crampons and axe stick.There was a considerable moat, but one finger of ice led right onto the rock. The gulley leading over to the south side was near vertical dirt and rocks, which I climbed using my axe and some very unglamourous thrashing (we found another gulley to downclimb on the way back that was better). More scree led up to the summit with great views of the North Cascades. The glacier was softer on the way down and I was more relaxed knowing I could arrest a fall. I still had a little energy so I traversed over to look at the Silver Glacier. It looked pretty broken up, but like a very nice route. Silver Lake is worth the extra scree and boulder hopping.

The hike out was uneventful and happy with a great climbing experience behind us. Redoubt is on for next season!

 

Gear Notes:

Standard glacier gear. Poles helped a lot on the scree. The mosquitos were out, but not horrible.

 

Approach Notes:

The Chilliwack Lake road is pothole hell the last seven miles. High clearance vehicles can make it all the way to the trailhead. The trail was nice, except the section past the falls. Early morning the falls seemed to have less spray.

[Dirtyleaf]

It just goes to show...girlfriends are good for something!