TarHeelEMT Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Trip: Mt. Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier Date: 5/29/2009 Trip Report: Fresh after a rest day from our Baker climb, we decided to do Mt. Shuksan, which I had wanted to climb for a long time. The approach was clear until you got to the switchbacks, at which point it was entirely snow-covered (though melting fast). The approach was quick and easy, and we made good time up to the Sulphide, where we ran into an Alpine Ascents intro mountaineering course that had summitted that morning (the 28th). They said that conditions were good for them, but that the snow was getting slushy fast (which we also noticed). There was a lot of avalanche activity between 5800' and 6200', so we moved quickly. We saw the very recent remains of one large slab avalanche, as well as several other smaller slides. It was only 10 AM, but I kicked off several small slides beneath me. Large slab avalanche: We got to camp fairly early and were asleep by 7 PM, with alarms set for 3 AM, hoping to get firm snow in spite of the warm weather. Unfortunately, although the sky had been crystal clear the night before, I woke up sweating in my bag and sank to my knees in wet snow almost as soon as I left the tent. We headed out for the summit anyway, hoping for better snow higher up, but it just wasn't meant to be. The going was very slow, and I wasn't enthusiastic about leading a steep route on snow with the consistency of a warm slushie. My partner was not the most experienced climber and was uncertain about his ability to reliably manage the belay on a multi-pitch alpine route. I was willing to go for it in good snow, but I didn't feel good about climbing the pyramid with unstable snow and a questionable belay, so we turned around, happy to be going back through the avalanche area in the morning rather than the afternoon (though we still saw several slides). Pretty sunrise, though: In summary: Lots of avalanche activity near the toe of the glacier, and really soft, slushy snow because of the warm weather. Gear Notes: Snowshoes would've been nice Approach Notes: Snow on all switchbacks on ascent, but had melted significantly overnight. Road should be clear all the way to the trailhead by now - we got very close, with only a small patch of snow stopping us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mauri Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 That is a gorgeous ski in the right conditions, and these were not them, good choice. How are the conditions on the former road section of the trail? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TarHeelEMT Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 The former road section of the trail is completely free of snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t_rutl Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 that slide area got the heart pumping more than the summit...you know that giant slab that peeled off? we were a few hours behind that when it happened on Memorial Day... smart move my man and well done...the weather is looking to chill a bit so giver hell again in week or two!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TarHeelEMT Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 the weather is looking to chill a bit so giver hell again in week or two!! I wish I could! It's quite an endeavor for me to get over there, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostCamKenny Posted June 7, 2009 Share Posted June 7, 2009 Somewhere, Kerouac is smiling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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