[TR] Gold Creek Valley - Gold Lake Drainage 2/15/2009

[lazyalpinist]

Trip: Gold Creek Valley - Gold Lake Drainage

 

Date: 2/15/2009

 

Trip Report:

On Ground Hog's Day my friend Steve and I were headed out to find the route Josh and David climbed: "The Conquering Floormat" However, we didn't locate it as we headed up into the woods too early. After crossing several avy chutes/gullies we came across one that had climbable ice. However, temps were high that week, and it was already late in the day, so we climbed the first pitch and bailed, as it was a major terrain trap. It wasn't until we skied the gully back down to the trail that we noticed how close we were to "The Conquering Floormat." Looking at it then, and having read Josh's trip report since, I can say that I wasn't up to leading it.

 

So, I went back this Sunday with Peter, and we gave the Gold Lake Drainage route a go.

 

The route is short steps interspersed with flat 'pools' and snow gully sections. It had a alpine flavor the higher up we went. We were able to muster four pitches out of it, with the potential for more. We made an unfortunate decision where the gully splits around 3800' to take climber's left branch which went up one more step and stopped in 25° snow. The right branch had at least two or three more ice steps in it. I would bet it could be followed right up to the lake about another 500' vertical or so.

 

Ice was variable, and mostly thin. Plenty of hollow sections, plenty of sections with water running underneath. Chandeliered at times. Some sections with bomber ice. Lots of sections with a snice coating over better ice. Deep wallowing powder in the pools.

 

Decent was some down climbing (hiking) and two raps(one 30m, one 60m) off skier's right of the top.

 

I would say the route was WI2, about 200m. Probably a grade I

If you were bold enough to try out the right branch to the lake, you would be looking at a grade II.

 

The route: (February 2 photo)

 

Top of second step looking down:

 

Gully split:

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Screws and screamers. You had to look hard to place anything longer than a 19. Upper pitches we could tree belay. Two tools.

 

Approach Notes:

Park at Gold Creek SnoPark. We followed the trail/road in past the houses, then turned right just before the "no fishing" sign on the trail. Ascend the gully until you reach the icier bits.

[thelawgoddess]

Nice way to be persistent on this one. Hope you had fun!