Climbing in Madagascar

[Lowlander]

The wife and I are contemplating going to Madagascar in April and May for some climbing and sighseeing. I have found some good websites of information, topos and route descriptions but wondering if anyone has been there. I'm looking to know your opinions on the safety/bolts and anchors, style of climbing, and when it's best to go. Thanks

[Braydon]

Rock and Ice had a sick issue on climbing there that had some pretty good beta as well.

[ken4ord]

Please share any info you do have on Madagascar, I would really like to get there someday. I am curious on what info you have found so far. It suppose to be a beautiful country. The only thing I know about it there have been a few teams over the years that have gone and set up some climbs but everything I have seen so far about it is big wall climbing and then followed with freeing the climbs at a hard grade.

 

* Lyn Hill set up a climb that was hard 12 or easy 13 can't remember.

* These guys had a sucessful trip and established a 800 12a

http://www.alardsbigwallclimbing.com/madagascar1.htm

* This place looks awesome, sort of Thailand looking, though probably not as humid or well traveled. http://www.gdargaud.net/Climbing/Madagascar.html

* Here is a collection of articles on climbing in Madagascar http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/list.lasso?search_idgenere=1&search_idtipoprod=&search_parola=madagascar&cl=1&id_marchio=&l=2&func=search&submitButtonName=Search

 

If you were interested in more moderate stuff I would try to get in stock with local embassies or NGO's Generally in everyone of these developing countries a lot people from all over and I have found usually at least one or two non-local people who are not on the cutting edge, but that enjoy the sport who could lead you in the right direction.

 

Some friends who have traveled around the country said it was amazing that there are several cliffs all over the country from big walls to single pitch size cliff. They do any climbing and were mainly there to go hiking and kiting.

 

I'm having dinner with a friend tomorrow night who was living there for a few year and and ask him if he had heard of anything or set you up with some contacts.

 

Cheers,

 

Ken

 

[Lowlander]

Braydon- Yeah, my wife bought that mag a while ago. Good stuff in there, climbing is like Tonsai style at Nosy Hara Archipelago. We spent a month at Tonsai and could live that life style again.

 

Ken- Another 2 websites I found that were helpful are:

http://www.skimountaineering.com/main%20madagascar.htm

http://www.campcatta.com/climbing.htm

 

I'm also trying to get a feel of the climbing at Tsaranoro, so far it is sandbagged and runout. Still plenty of climbs to do there, but would like to know what to expect. Some contacts or more info is always helpful. I'll read up on your links.

 

Thanks guys