[TR] Kloochman Rock & The Talon - 9/27/2008

[AlpineMonkey]

Trip: Kloochman Rock & The Talon -

 

Date: 9/27/2008

 

Trip Report:

Kloochman Rock - Peak 1 - N. Face - Grade III, 5.10D PG

 

 

This rock outcropping is quite impressive from the S. Face climbs on the neighbooring Goose Egg Mountain. The Kloochman Peaks are well known among climbers as being dangerously loose, however, we found that the rock wasen’t all that bad. Though there are bands of looseness, the majority of the climbing is safe and good for the carefull climber. The route consits of mostly face climbing up slabs and through small roofs.

 

 

High on the face

 

 

 

The Talon - South Face Direct - Grade I, 5.10C PG

 

This promient tower can be seen from Highway 12, E. of White Pass. The approach took aproximatly one hour of walking up 1000 feet of talus. We found the majority of the tower to be loose, but neverthless, it is an intereting feature.

 

 

Climbing through the crux roof

 

 

Spectacular summit

 

[kevino]

Glad to see you got better weather than we did in march!

[ApeMan]

Great climbs! Living local to Kloochman I've looked at that side of the rocks many times but never found a partner interested in getting on anything. Like wise on the Talon, I made a solo visit with my dogs years ago but have never gotten the opportunity to make an ascent.

 

Glad the weather worked for you!

[AlpineMonkey]

I don't not recommend a lot of climbs, but The Talon is 90 feet of loose, scarry, dangerous, not recomended climbing in my opinion. Was planning to do all the 4 routes up it, but one was enough. My fiancee didn't even want to climb the route on top rope it was so loose. It's pretty high up on my all time loose list and I've been on a lot (I mean a lot) of trash. I'm glad I did it, but I for sure wont be back.