[TR] WA Pass - WestFacevarofSEWS 9/15/2008

[Wakaranai]

Trip: WA Pass - WestFacevarofSEWS

 

Date: 9/15/2008

 

Trip Report:

Our original plans to head to Squamish for the weekend were abruptly changed so that we could try out some local climbing near Sedro Wooley and WA Pass. I thank you Martin for the last minute run around. The first day went really nice and we had a mellow time craggin on some single pitch stuff at Cumberland Gap in the warm sun. I was very happy to get a FA redpoint of Cahullawassee a great new sport route there. We only heard a few shotguns and never once did a hillbilly ask us what a couple of city slickers were doing climbin on dem dar rocks. Though next time I crag at Cumberland will probably wear my orange hunting gear not the camo.

 

We then drove out to Wa pass and dirtbagged it at the hairpin where we were surprised to see no other cars. Must be some better road side camping we dont know about.

 

Martin and I were looking for a mellow multipitch climb with the easiest approach possible. West Face of SEWS fit the bill and we got an early start. Reading past trip reports I was a bit nervous about the 5.8 off width pitch being they said that a #5 and two #4 camalots were good to have, which I didnt. Once we were at the bottom of the route the offwidth pitch looked pretty mellow and settled my nerves a bit.

 

1st pitch we took the easier ramp (left one)from the obvious spruce tree up blocky chossy stuff then back right to a big ledge under the Offwidth.

2nd pitch Climb up to and through this nice crack. I didnt think one #4 camalot was necessary for this pitch or any others that we did on the climb for that matter. I think a #2 down low then a #3 or two was plenty. Nice pitch.

3rd pitch I wish we had linked with pitch 2. Short double cracks to another huge ledge under the Boving roof.

4th pitch The Boving Roof (I wanted nothing to do with that 5.10 chimney) but this roof traverse is a great alt. Cruxy at the end of roof #1, roof #2 is much easier. Great gear to #3 camalot all the way. A couple of loose blocks near the start of roof #1 Id like to trundle on a less busy day.

5th pitch A spread eagle move gets you back inline with the Rib route.

6th-7th Fun, easy and clean face climbng to the top

Martin did awsome and we made good time despite me lagging on the roof a bit. Back on time for dinner. A nice way to spend a perfect indian summer day.

 

Gear Notes:

Up to #3camalot a #4and #5 if you really really want to sew it up

 

Approach Notes:

The easiest approach out there for an "alpine light" climb

Here are some pics Martin took in random order.

 

Edited September 27, 2008 by Wakaranai