Snow conditions on the Torment-Forbidden Traverse

[jpark42]

Looking for some one that has been up there recently and knows what the snow conditions are like on the Torment section

[Ade]

We did this yesterday. The snow on parts of the traverse has melted out a lot there are some big slots to bypass. In many places it was easier to stick to the rock and avoid the snow entirely.

[Brucewol]

Looking for route information on the west ridge of Forbidden any suggestions?

[Ade]

The upper ridge is pretty much as described in Nelson. The approach couloir looked pretty ugly, I suspect you'd end up climbing the buttress on the left. It's not particularly nice climbing but it'll get you to the notch.

 

 

[jpark42]

Thanks for the update but a little late. We went and found out the old fashion way what the snow conditions looked liked. And I agree with Abe, Bruce, if you take the left gully you shouldn't have problems getting to the notch.

[jpark42]

PS: If you were up there this weekend there is a good possibility we may have seen you while we were doing it.

[Brucewol]

Thank you for the the information will try next weekend i hope weather premitting