[TR] Washington Pass - SEWS-DEB/Clean Break 7/19/2

[NoahT]

Trip: Washington Pass - SEWS-DEB/Clean Break

 

Date: 7/19/2008

 

Trip Report:

Went on a blind date with Michiel (lowlander) to wash pass for some stuff that had been on the list for a while. The general outline was head up friday after work, climb the DEB on Sat, hike up and bivy below Juno tower, climb clean break and hike out.

 

There's no need for a blow by blow description, but suffice it to say the weather was warm and the climbing varied. We agreed we didn't weren't quite captured by any "classic"-ness of the DEB. A 5.9 corner, some face climbing, short 5.10 fingers, more face...and you're done. A decent route on a great feature, I guess. We both found the climbing on the second bolt ladder easier than the first, and despite having to wait for a party ahead of us, made it from the car to summit in 5 hours. A good start to the weekend...

 

Despite the hike up to our bivy below Juno taking a mere 2.5 hours, we were pretty wiped. I won't whine about the bugs, but we can say they tested our resolve. Don't be surprised to do some off-trail schwacking past the first major boulder field. We scored a perfectly flat rock big enough for the both of us right at the edge of the trees below the major gully north of Juno. No back-tracking needed on the descent. In contrast to the DEB, clean break held our interest with 7 pitches of great climbing. We linked a couple pitches together, just running the rope out to logical stances. The last bit of ridge went by quickly, making for a camp to camp time of 7 hours or so. Michiel humored me by getting up at 4ish, climbing by 5:30, back to camp by noon, earlier than expected. The first two pitches are definitely the best, but just about every pitched offered something interesting, if only a delicate 5.10 traverse or two.

 

Only one camera for the both of us, so the representation is a little lopsided. A few of the good ones...

 

Just turned the corner onto the upper face of SEWS

 

The traverse just after the short, 5.10 crack between the bolt ladders

 

The money P1 of Clean Break

 

 

Finishing the last belayed pitch before simuling to the summit

 

Are these F-ing mosquitoes STILL with us--yes...yes they are!

 

The view from our bivy before heading down

 

Gear Notes:

We took doubles to BD #2, one 3 and 4--didn't need the 4, but could have used one more #3 on CB.

 

Approach Notes:

For Juno tower, after crossing the creek and reaching the open marshy area, start heading up-hill through light trees and boulders. Basically, you can't go too high because you'll eventually get a view of the tower, and correct accordingly. You can, though, stay to low, and get drawn into alder patches unnecessarily. It all seems obvious looking down on the basin from above.

[Lowlander]

Thanks for posting Noah. Clean Break was an incredible climb and would easily recommend it. If you are going to climb, definetly follow Noah's approach notes.

 

And if anyone goes in there this weekend, I may have lost my light green Mont Bell jacket on the trail somewhere. Feel free to use it, but man, I would love to get it back.