marc_leclerc Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 Trip: Nicolum Knob - Many Date: 6/19/2008 Trip Report: I went to Nicolum Knob today with my girlfriend, Tamara. We climbed: First Blood(5.6) (was dirty but I cleaned it really well) Dead Soles (5.10c), Kyle Hudie Route (5.11a) and Land Down Under (5.10a). All the routes were nice and Dead Soles was a tricky on-sight with a weird crux low down. The trail is still nice and the routes are all clean. I also tried Life on a Chain (12a) and almost got through the hard part to where the crack widens and eases off on my first attempt.. then I took a whipper back to the first bolt and was too pumped out to try again.. its hard... I hope whoever is trying to get the FA does it soon cuz I want to go back and lead it clean. I also did an easy but super fun boulder problem on the way out.. But basically, all the routes are in good shape and the trail is pretty good. Go there! Gear Notes: Gear to about 3 inches is plenty for most routes.. go heavy on the Finger Sizes Approach Notes: Trail past Hubcaps and throught forest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
narrowarrow Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 Where is this crag? Squampton? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share Posted June 20, 2008 Hope.. where Highway #3 and #5 split Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 20, 2008 Share Posted June 20, 2008 Next time do Hwy 12 into Two Bolts or Not to Bee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted June 20, 2008 Author Share Posted June 20, 2008 Yeah.. i want to try Kemo Sabe too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tlinn Posted June 27, 2008 Share Posted June 27, 2008 Yeah.. i want to try Kemo Sabe too Kemosabe is a great route but it needs a re-scrub. The lower cliff is very shady and needs a lot of traffic. How was climbing Life on a Chain? After re-scrubbing it last week I had to go back to Ontario on Wednesday so I wasn't able to claim the FA. The bottom is HARD. After looking at it this time and then trying the moves on TR we decided to add a few more bolts. The clips are tough and you wouldn't want to miss a clip and deck out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted June 27, 2008 Author Share Posted June 27, 2008 its good... I can almost get to the ledge without falling while on the lead... the new bolts help especially in the lower section.. but the bolt you added a few feet below the ledge is hard to clip so I skip it and fall onto the old 3rd bolt in that section. The only move I cant do is standing up and reching the better locks a couple feet below that ledge part way up.. otherwise I have it. Can I try for the FA? or do you want me to wait until you get back.. I think that once I get the move it looks like 5.10 climbing to the top... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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