[TR] Nicolum Knob - Many 6/19/2008

[marc_leclerc]

Trip: Nicolum Knob - Many

 

Date: 6/19/2008

 

Trip Report:

I went to Nicolum Knob today with my girlfriend, Tamara. We climbed: First Blood(5.6) (was dirty but I cleaned it really well) Dead Soles (5.10c), Kyle Hudie Route (5.11a) and Land Down Under (5.10a). All the routes were nice and Dead Soles was a tricky on-sight with a weird crux low down. The trail is still nice and the routes are all clean.

I also tried Life on a Chain (12a) and almost got through the hard part to where the crack widens and eases off on my first attempt.. then I took a whipper back to the first bolt and was too pumped out to try again.. its hard... I hope whoever is trying to get the FA does it soon cuz I want to go back and lead it clean.

I also did an easy but super fun boulder problem on the way out..

 

 

But basically, all the routes are in good shape and the trail is pretty good. Go there!

 

Gear Notes:

Gear to about 3 inches is plenty for most routes.. go heavy on the Finger Sizes

 

Approach Notes:

Trail past Hubcaps and throught forest.

[narrowarrow]

Where is this crag? Squampton?

 

[marc_leclerc]

Hope.. where Highway #3 and #5 split

[G-spotter]

Next time do Hwy 12 into Two Bolts or Not to Bee

[marc_leclerc]

Yeah.. i want to try Kemo Sabe too

[tlinn]

Yeah.. i want to try Kemo Sabe too

 

Kemosabe is a great route but it needs a re-scrub. The lower cliff is very shady and needs a lot of traffic.

 

How was climbing Life on a Chain? After re-scrubbing it last week I had to go back to Ontario on Wednesday so I wasn't able to claim the FA. The bottom is HARD. After looking at it this time and then trying the moves on TR we decided to add a few more bolts. The clips are tough and you wouldn't want to miss a clip and deck out.

[marc_leclerc]

its good... I can almost get to the ledge without falling while on the lead... the new bolts help especially in the lower section.. but the bolt you added a few feet below the ledge is hard to clip so I skip it and fall onto the old 3rd bolt in that section. The only move I cant do is standing up and reching the better locks a couple feet below that ledge part way up.. otherwise I have it. Can I try for the FA? or do you want me to wait until you get back.. I think that once I get the move it looks like 5.10 climbing to the top...