Iron Fingers Traverse - Minnehaha

[spotly]

Anyone here ever aid up that? I've got limited supplies of small gear and zilch as far as an aid rack so was wondering what kinda gear it takes before I go out borrowing and begging. Thanks.

[Bob Loomis]

Hi Spotly,

 

I hope we are speaking of the same thing. The Iron Fingers Traverse and Roof I am thinking of is on an outcrop up the hill from the main area of Minnehaha, and the name of the outcrop is "White Rock." If that is the route you are thinking of I think I can be of help.

Years ago before the route was freed I aided it twice. One time prior to the advent of camming devices, and the other shortly after their introduction in the late 1970s/early 1980s. The first time I used very small wired nuts and one or two copperheads to gain the actual traverse. The actual traverse involved a variety of hexes to get to the roof. At the roof I recall a couple of thin blades (the thin Bugaboo variety) to surmount the roof. The second time it was all the same except I used cams (the original rigid stem Friends) for the traverse. It seemed to me that the range was .5 inches to about 2.5 to 3 inches for the traverse, but my recollection could be faulty since it has been many years. I also recall the traverse proper being pretty straightforward nutting/camming with the majority of the placements very secure (C1 or so in today's rating terms). I remember the actual roof being the crux since the blades did not go in all the way--in retrospect a couple of RURPs would have been smarter.

I hope I have been of assistance and I wish you good fortune as you progress in aid climbing.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob Loomis, Spokane, Washington

[spotly]

White Rock is the one I was referring to. Sounds like I've got the gear I'll need then. Thanks Bob - timely beta

[spotly]

We finally got up this yesterday...part way. We needed the practice so decided to split it up. The traverse was fun and good placements from .3 to .5 with one 3". I think the small tricams would have been handy (forgot them at home). Couldn't get past the roof without pounding in something and with the sun going down, we decided to bail while there was enough light to gather our gear. I think we'll try again when the rock is warmer and the days are longer. A fun diversion from an otherwise boring weekend.

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