[TR] The Mace - Sedona, AZ - Original Route 4/6/2008

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Trip: The Mace - Sedona, AZ - Original Route

 

Date: 4/6/2008

 

Trip Report:

On a recent visit to Flagstaff I got to climb this classic Arizona tower. A pleasant 5.7 chimney/face/bulge first pitch and wild lean-across-the-gap fifth pitch bookend the meat of the route: three pitches of wide crack workout that covers all the sizes from hands in a flare to wide chimney, with plenty enough squeeze to put scabs on knees and elbows. Highly recommended, but note that it is significantly more work than something like the NW Corner of NEWS.

 

I didn't have a camera with me, but here's a topo and a few photos pirated from the web, because what's a TR without some eye candy? Yarr.

 

 

Topo pilfered from Climbing magazine

 

 

Spot the tower.

 

 

 

Pitch 1, it won't get any easier or friendlier than this.

 

 

The upper part of pitch 2, save something big for this section.

 

 

looking down pitch 3

 

 

 

Pretty damned scenic when you start tunneling in on the 4th pitch.

 

 

Someone went to some trouble to perch on the adjacent spire to get this picture of pitch 4.

 

 

 

pitch 5

 

 

FA by Kamps, Rearick, and Herbert in 1957 with a bunch of pins. Holy shit, those folks were badass.

 

Gear Notes:

> Cams from 1/2" to #5 camalot, doubles in the hand to wide fist size.

> Lots of shoulder length slings.

> Every belay ledge is a winner, one giant glue in eyebolt with supplemental gear.

> Two double rope rappels down the backside to a notch - be sure to shift knot over edge on first rappel. I bet you could get down with a single 70 meter rope.

 

who brings a pack on this route.

 

Approach Notes:

Casual 20 minute approach via trail and red rock slabs.