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first ascent [TR] Hells Gate/Fraser Canyon - FA "Styx" 105m WI3 1/26/2008

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Trip: Hells Gate/Fraser Canyon - FA "Styx" 105m WI3

 

Date: 1/26/2008

 

Trip Report:

This line is located 200m north of Cerberus on the west side of Hells Gate. I had scoped it earlier and it seemed pretty easy, with a couple steep steps dividing rambly-type ice.

 

My friend Sarah was down from PG and looking to do her first ice leads so this appeared to be a good choice. We left Agassiz at 7:30, had some Triple O's in Hope and left the car parked at Hells Gate around 8:30.

 

Hiked down to the river, waited for 2 trains to pass, crossed the bridge and 2 sets of fences, and hiked up the tracks past Cerberus gully to below the route.

 

Crampons on at the tracks and 100m of easy approach hiking up low-angle ice led to the route.

 

First pitch was 45m with 5m and 15m WI3 steps separated by easy ice.

 

Second and third pitches were led by Sarah for her first two ice leads. P2 was 20m WI2, mostly moving the belay up an easy ramp. P3 was 40m WI3 with a 5m near-vertical wall halfway up and easier ice elsewhere.

 

Two raps down. Snow started on first rappel.

 

On the way back out it turned out one of the locked gates we had climbed over was not really locked. :tup:

 

Slog back up to the highway, as always, is crux of climbing at Hells Gate.

 

 

 

shg1.JPG

shg2.JPG

shg3.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

8 screws, 2 ropes, waterproof gloves

 

Approach Notes:

Hike down trail, cross river, walk up tracks

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I hate you.... we (mike and I) went there about the same time as you but the only climb we checked out had big scary holes in it so we went ice bouldering instead.

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I hate you.... we (mike and I) went there about the same time as you but the only climb we checked out had big scary holes in it so we went ice bouldering instead.

 

There is a LOT of ice in in the canyon right now. It sounds like you went to Jackass.... which rarely forms. You guys could've been climbing Tailwind, or Kanaka Kolumn, or Sailo Bar Gully or whatever... hope the bouldering was fun! :grlaf:

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we didnt know how to get to the other side of the rive and we forgot the guide, but we had fun bouldering... I think.. It was really cold today (monday) I wonder if the Hope climbs will be in better shape?

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