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Posted (edited)

Definitely horizontal. Climbing anywhere in the Ruth area requires a lot of glacier travel, and even the so called "ice" routes usually have long sections of snow climbing and/or junky ice where surface area up front is your friend.

 

The Black Diamond Sabretooth crampons are still my favorite for all around climbing from snow slogs to water ice.

 

A headlamp is very useful until mid-May.

 

Good luck.

Edited by Climzalot
Posted

West face of Bear's Tooth 'White Russian' done in April ca. 2004(?). Check your AAJs...

 

Oh, and Sabretooths are pretty standard issue for AK. Horizontal frontpoints work best in the variable conditions you'll find there.

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