Nicolum Knob Update - Hope, BC

[tlinn]

Nicolum Knob is the granite slab you pass on highway #5 (the Coquihalla Hwy.) just a few minutes east of Hope. You can see a lot of the climbs quite easily from the highway, as clean white streaks. The easiest access is still to take the Highway 3 exit, turn around and head back towards Hope at the Nicolum Creek campsite and then take your first right onto the on-ramp to get back onto highway 5. Park along the on-ramp. From here walk across a bridge on highway 5 until you see some hubcaps on a tree marking the start of the trail. Blowdown from last Fall has made the trail a little difficult to follow there has been a new trail made and marked. There is orange and blue trail markings on the trail. The crag is basically split between climbs on the far left side of the cliff and climbs on the far right side. Kokanee Slab is on the far right and the Highway 12 area is on the far left. There are trails to both areas but the route finding is a bit difficult at the moment until the trail gets a bit more use. Basically if you follow the left branch and get to a Highway 12 sign you should be able to see some of the climbs to your right. If you take the right branch of the trail to get to Kokanee Slab you will know you are on track when you find a rope ladder that has been constructed by some local hikers. To find a topo and route description go to Cheyenne Sports in Hope on Wallace Street.

 

Route conditions (as of August 2007):

 

Highway 12 - a bit scruffy but still fun. Be aware that I removed some hangers on the last pitch (p.4, the last two pitches are known as "two bee or not two bee"). I know this makes things more confusing so I would like to just call the whole route Highway 12...the gear is good so don't worry that the hangers are missing, just bring a #4 or #3 camalot.

 

Kemosabe - very scruffy and needs a re-scrub. It's pretty shady down there so it grows in very fast.

 

New route to the left of Highway 12 - something Mike Warn is working on. I don't think he's named it yet and he's still projecting it. It's a clean sport route with 4 bolts.

 

Kyle Hudie - nice and clean.

 

First Blood - fairly clean but it's 5.6 and will clean up with a bit of traffic.

 

Dead Soles - clean and good to go.

 

The Exaggerator - a bit scruffy at the bottom but still climbable with a few moves of aid on the bolts near the bottom.

 

Land Down Under - clean and good fun. Bring a big cam (#4.5)

 

Life on a Chain - was never climbed this summer. Still a project that either needs a lower belay station or a bolt to aid through the crux.

 

Have fun!!!!

 

 

 

 

[G-spotter]

Shaun freed the aid moves on Exaggerator

[tlinn]

Shaun freed the aid moves on Exaggerator

 

SCHAWEEEET!