[TR] Jack Mt - South Face, beware easy routes 8/21/2007

[Iggy]

Trip: Jack Mt - South Face, beware easy routes

 

Date: 8/21/2007

 

Trip Report:

Jack Barben and I walked in to Jerry Lakes and climbed the S. Face. After climbing out of the Jerry Lakes hole we traversed over to the head of Crater Creek and crossed the SE ridge at about 7,000ft. The right side of the face looked steep and wet so we traversed entirely on snow under the summit block to the top of the snow and started going up just past the summit block. There was still enough snow in the gully to make us climb the ribs but not enough to make us use the snow ramps. On descent the trickles were small streams.

 

This peak is very rotten with multiple variations possible. It appears the easiest way up is where the streams were the wettest

at this time. Up was no problem but the down part was some tricky down climbing of some 8-10 steep steps. We did one 40 ft rappel near the bottom.

 

Everyone knows this peak is rotten but as a long time cascade climber I would like to attest to the fact that it is more so than most. Little Tahoma is Prusik Peak next to this one.

Both of us were kicking rocks down in spite of how careful we tried to be. I almost whacked Jack with a softball to the back of the head. Fortunately I was only about 8 feet above him down climbing and it bounced before it hit him.

 

The only other thing I would say is that on the way out Jack fell into a 2.5 ft wide crevasse high up on Jerry Gl. THis was an area smooth as glass and well above the obvious crevasse zone. If it were not for his pack he may well have ben wedged in 10-20 ft down.

This is a weeny glacier and the type that invites one to take a chance and not rope up. At least for me I will resist the urge next time I have it. We were roped up but I will admit the thought of not doing so had crossed my mind.

 

Jack is a pretty mountain from Crater Mt. or Jerry Lakes. However, once on the S. Face it is one butt ugly mass of choss.

Now I know why I have never seen a close up of the face in a

trip report.

 

The only reason I did it was to complete my 9k list. The one redeeming value is the summit views of virtually the entire range.

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

If you forget your hard hat, go home!!! No pro needed but a few long slings might come in handy. The trick is finding a stationary oject to atach them to.

[rob]

glad you're OK. Did the crevasse fall happen because of a bad bridge, or did he slip and fall into an open one?

[Iggy]

That was my point. It was totally hidden with a smooth surface and no indications whatsoever. Even late in the year you can be surprised on a small smooth appearing glacier.