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[TR] Tieton - Goose Egg Mountain - Diirty Sanchez 8/18/2007


Jeff Woodward

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Trip: Tieton - Goose Egg Mountain - Diirty Sanchez

 

Date: 8/18/2007

 

Trip Report:

[font:Comic Sans MS]I love adventure climbing.

 

A couple weeks ago, my girlfriend Sarah and I headed up to Tieton to check out a couple routes on Goose Egg Mountain. Sarah's been learning multipitch trad climbing over the last year, so we were looking for a route that was a bit of a step up from Beacon Rock and Ingalls Peak, while still reasonably close to Portland. (As usual, Sarah's a trooper - she's learning trad on adventury routes with loose rock and interesting descents instead of nice clean granite slabs.)

 

We planned on climbing Ride the Lightning (III 5.9), but after meeting another party at the base, we traded them rights to the climb in exchange for a peek at their guidebook.

 

Dirty Sanchez (III 5.8) was fun, similar to what the name implies. There were a few too many sections of loose rock for our liking (Sarah pulled a few handholds off and we pulled off two good sized rocks on the descent, one of which clonked me in the helmet). However, the climbing was still pretty fun.

 

As usual, I'll let pictures tell the story:

 

Tieton_002.jpg

 

The route follows the left hand skyline in this picture. The top of pitch one is the base of the large pine tree.

 

Tieton_006.jpg

 

Sarah low on the route.

 

Tieton_009.jpg

 

Me leading pitch two - fun stemming!

 

Tieton_011.jpg

 

Looking east along the face. The Ride the Lightning corner is the long corner capped by a roof. If you look really closely, you can see the party above the roof.

 

Tieton_023.jpg

 

Sarah climbing through a notch.

 

Tieton_024.jpg

 

The little knife edge bit - yay! The rock got looser and we got colder after this.

 

Tieton_035.jpg

 

The next day, we had some awesome cragging at Royal Columns. Mmmmm... basalt!

 

NOTE: As per other CC trip report discussions of the area, I think that the walkoff is a better idea than the Gangsta Rap rappels. The rock is a bit loose on the rappels - we knocked off two softball sized stones, and there are several rope-eating flakes. Walking would probably be faster too.[/font]

 

Gear Notes:

Helmet!

 

Approach Notes:

Flipflops worked fine.

 

The start was a bit tricky to climb (We accidentally climbed up a 4th class bit and arrived half way up pitch 2 before finding the correct way). The tree at the top of Pitch 1 is BIG and OBVIOUS, the tree at the start of Pitch 1 is small and non-so-obvious.

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