[TR] Ingalls North Peak Traverse - East Ridge 8/5/2007

[Layback]

Trip: Ingalls North Peak Traverse - East Ridge

 

Date: 8/5/2007

 

Trip Report:

Complete TR with photos here: http://alpinetarn.com/ingallspeakeastridge.aspx

 

Our group of 4 met at the TH at 4:30 am and were hiking by 5:00 am. We reached Ingalls Pass pretty quickly with just day packs. Passing through the campsites at the base of the pass we saw the family of goats again. One of them was busy at work eating something in someone's camp (where stuff was left lying everywhere). After startling the goats, we passed Ingalls Lake and started our ascent up the slabs and finally the scree gulley. We reached the base of the climb at 7:30 am

 

Gil drew the short end of stick and I chose the even numbered pitches so that I could lead the crux pitch on pitch 6. Some do the climb in 5 pitches - we had chosen to do it in 6 pitches to avoid the rope drag that commonly occurs on this climb.

 

P1: Pretty straight forward. One move off the ground (5.4/5.5) and then a scrambling traverse.

 

P2: Fun face climbing with 5.5 moves. Some of it run-out.

 

P3: Short pitch involving hard-to-protect down-climbing and some moderate exposure.

 

P4: Amazing climbing up a face that eventually gains the ridge followed by finger traverse with some nice exposure. 5.5 PG

 

P5: Downclimb a bit and then traverse the ridge to a solid belay for the crux pitch. Stay low to avoid rope-drag.

 

P6: Ascend through the roof, moving right over the roof and then back left to gain the final ridge. Nelson reccomends placing pro early as pro is harder to fin near the crux, but I disagree. There were SOLID nut placements at waist level as one enters the crux. I'd give the crux move a 5.5/5.6 rating max (and I am not trying to be arrogant). It's an easy move - don't overthink it.

 

This was a really fun climb with a great group! After summiting, we rappelled via the South Face route.

 

Gear Notes:

Gear notes: Set of Aliens. Set of BD nuts. I brought Camalots 3, 3.5, and 4 but did not use any of them.