[TR] Squire Creek, Darrington - Roan Wall 7/24/2007

[catbirdseat]

Trip: Squire Creek, Darrington - Roan Wall

 

Date: 7/24/2007

 

Trip Report:

This was the second attempt by Mark McKillop and I on Roan Wall. Last week we got as far as the stream bed when a thunderstorm moved in dumped on us. Yesterday, the weather was much better.

 

We used 512Dude's route description as our guide which was accurate for the mostpart.

 

On this trip, I was prepared with sandals for the stream crossing. There is a log crossing but I wouldn't try it wet which it was as it had rained the previous day. As it was we got pretty soaked from wet foliage on the approach.

 

The approach is quite pretty and interesting. It would be a worthwhile trip for the more adventurous hiker, as it terminates at an amazingly beautiful alpine cirque with towering walls and cascading waterfalls.

 

We had two false starts trying to find the right approach gully. We'd started too soon. It's well marked when you find it. If in doubt, keep going up the stream bed. You'll see cairns, and a piece of tape way up in the trees above some boulders. The start into the gully involves scrambling over boulders and crawling over vine maples, but soon opens up. In one place it takes a hard right and makes an unlikely traverse over a bunch of maple trunks.

 

The first approach pitch was short, fun, and uneventful. Scramble up a bit to reach the next belay. The second pitch, advertised as "5.4x" was not exactly unprotectable. I'd give it a PG. Mark was able to find six or more gear placements, but they were often shallow dirty cracks. Bring a nut tool if you feel to need to protect this pitch.

 

Once on the Roan Wall proper we had loads of fun. Mark lead pitch 3, 5.10b. It's got lots of thin flakes for edges. Fun.

 

Roan wall features the finest slab climbing I've ever done. At least better than anything I'd done in Darrington. Really good.

 

We made it as far as pitch 7, which Mark led. It was advertised as 5.11a, but Mark said it really wasn't much harder than pitch 3. He gave it a "mid 5.10" rating. I didn't get to experience it as Mark hit running water at the last two bolts and couldn't continue. We bailed at that point, happy to have been able to go that far.

 

I'd add that the 6th ("5.9") pitch has one or two pretty hard moves, significantly harder but less sustained than pitch 4 also "5.9". I'd rate it 5.10a.

 

I'd definitely go back again. Sorry, neither of us remembered to bring a camera.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Bring lots of draws, at least 14.

 

Approach Notes:

The tough guys do this in 3 hours. It took us over 4 hours.

[Blake]

Cool, good job guys. The last 3 pitches were all rumored to be 5.9 as well (crack climbing for much of it) but definitely had some harder bits thrown in. I think it's worth camping in the valley in order to do Salish and Roan as well.

[rob]

Nice, guys!