[TR] Roan Wall - Center Stage 5.11a 7/5/2007

[512dude]

Trip: Darrington - Center Stage 5.11a

 

Date: 7/5/2007

 

Trip Report:

Just did Roan Wall today and there are a few things I would add to the previous reports:

 

1) two ropes are required to rap Roan Wall (we ended up rapping off single bolts using tie-offs, if you are up there cut off these green colored tie offs as we already pulled our rope thru them)

2) Roan is in the sun all day so bring plenty of H20 and sunscreen or choose an over cast day

3) make sure you get the final watercourse correct otherwise you will do the bushwack from hell

4) the 2nd pitch had no gear so it ends up 5.4X; we went straight up the middle of the face on this pitch

5) this route is well bolted but many hangers are loose and need to be tightened including some at the belays

6) our grading was as follows: .7/.4X/.10b/.9/.8/.9/.11a/.10c/.9/.10a

 

...and thanks to the FA'tionist for not over bolting this route into submission.

 

Route Info Attached

 

Cheers!

 

Gear Notes:

14 QD's and a set of cams from up to a #2 Camelot including a few Micros.

 

Approach Notes:

The approach is described in the attached file but it can be ~3hrs to get in there. Don't screw up the final approach to the wall and better yet, bring some loppers to trim out slide Alder and make a reasonable path up the final drainage.

3746-RoanWall-CenterStage5.11.pdf

Edited July 9, 2007 by 512dude

[catbirdseat]

Mark and I made the approach today almost to the wall only to have to wait out a huge thunderstorm under a dense stand of trees- torrential rain wind, the works. We listened to several loud booming thunder strikes within a mile or two. We figured that the wall would stay wet, so we split.

 

I suggest bringing a pair of Tevas for the stream crossing. It's much easier to just wade than use that slippery tree and the subsequent brush bash.

[512dude]

We just walked the stream in our runners and avoided the bush bash. They dried nicely in the sun.

 

Good suggestion re the Tevas.