Olympic Guidebook

[johndavidjr]

How much did Fred Beckey's first guidebook cover of Olympic Mts. and separately, has it had any influence on "new" guidebook to Olympics?

 

I've probably mentioned that apart from cragging sections, I don't see much new editorial stuff in new edition. See recent thread on Deception.

 

Also, what rating system, if any, did Beckey's first book employ?

 

 

Edited July 4, 2007 by johndavidjr

[Lazyboy]

This is from Climber's Guide to the Cascade and Olympic Mountains by Fred Beckey Copyright 1949 by The American Alpine Club.

 

This is what Fred writes in the front in a short section titled Mountaineering Hints

 

"Some rock routes are classified as to their degree of difficulty, not to encourage competition, but to discourage the inexperienced from attempting ascents beyond their ability. Using the Welzenbach system, class 3 is moderately difficult, requiring the use of the rope and some belaying; class 4 requires soft-soled shoes and continual belays; class 5 adds the use of pitons for safety, and for direct aid in class 6."

 

Fred lists Mt. Cruiser in the Olympic Mountains as a class 4.

 

His ratings for Forbidden Peak in the North Cascades is class 4 for route 1 and class 4/5 for route 2. I don't know which routes these are.

 

Chimney Rock in the Cascades is listed as class 4.

 

Interesting, there is no class listing for Mt. Constance in the Olympics.

 

There is a listing of class 3 and 4 rock work for some of the stuff in The Needles in the Olympics.

 

Just glancing through it seems that he did not rate much in the Olympics.

 

As far as I can tell Fred's guide covered the entire Olympics. At the time the guide was written there was still some unclimbed peaks so they probably are not in there. There are some fairly obscure peaks that are included however like Mt. Gladys and Mt. Townsend.

 

I have not seen the latest edition of the Olympic Mountain Guide but some of the entrys in the edition that I have are quoted directly from Beckey's Guide. I suspect that may still be the case but have not checked it.

 

Hope this helps.