devinejohnny Posted June 29, 2007 Posted June 29, 2007 Trip: Mount Stuart - Complete North Ridge Date: 8/20/2016 Trip Report: Here is some photo beta for the complete north ridge of Stuart. I figured as long as I was on a posting spree, I would throw these pictures from last summer up. I'm not sure if the day is correct, and I know the year is wrong (the drop down menue goes from the present date forward, not backwards; odd). We hiked to Ingalls Lake in the afternoon and camped. Woke up at 4AM and went up the west ridge, then down, then up to Goat Pass, then back down to the toe of the North Ridge. We did some scouting and talked to a few parties coming off the route the day before and decided to just wear approach shoes (no crampons) and leave the ice axes in favor of a treking pole each. It was a good call for this late in the season; there was only a little snow, not very steep, and no ice. The pole was great for the descent down the Cascadian. We belayed the first two pitches, then simul climbed to the the gendarme where we ran into a couple of other parties doing the half ridge. We had to sit around for a long time as parties moved through this bottle neck. We belayed these two pitches, then simuled to the top. Topped out at 3PM and descended the Cascadian, my knees thankful for the trekking pole. We hiked back up to Ingalls Lake and broke our camp, starting back to the car at 6PM. We were back to the car by 9 and back in Tacoma hours later. I presented my master's thesis on teaching the next morning. Wake up call at trailhead View of Stuart from Ingalls Lake Shallow Water Bouldering at Ingalls Lake Nap Time at the lake Billy Goat Pass from the ridge Climbers approaching the ridge higher up The first few pitches from the bottom of the toe Some of the fourth class area Looking over at the glacier Looking down the ridge before the gendarme Looking across the glacier at other party Close up of other party Working towards the gendarme The first pitch on the gendarme Second pitch Summit shot Mazama box Smoke plume Balanced rock Down climb Looking back at the summit Looking back up early in the descent Great route, a must do. I can't wait to go back for a car to car. Gear Notes: Standard rack, single 60m folded over into double ropes, lots of runners for simul climbing. Approach Notes: The trail up the west ridge is a little faint in spots, but marked with cairns. There was no snow up to Billy Goat Pass. The Stuart Glacier was pretty icey, but since we were heading to the bottom of the ridge, we were able to travel mostly on low to mid angle talus and snow. No sweat for approach shoes and a trekking pole. The descent down the Cascadian was sandy and it took some concentration to get in the right gully. Quote
rob Posted June 29, 2007 Posted June 29, 2007 Nice. I want to do this route, I think I'm gonna rock it on my next summer -- give me time to work on my chops Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted June 29, 2007 Posted June 29, 2007 That bouldering photo is sweet!! Quote
Lowlander Posted June 29, 2007 Posted June 29, 2007 I recognized that plume of smoke and realized my buddy and I were the party behind you guys. Thanks for the pictures climbing up the gendarme. Quote
devinejohnny Posted June 29, 2007 Author Posted June 29, 2007 No problem; did you get all of them? Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.