Omega Pacific SBG Belay/Rappel Device

[dan_e]

I've tried this thing on several ice climbs this season and so far it works great for belaying with my twin 8's, but it is horrible for rapping. If the v-notch side is used there is too much friction and or jamming, if the U-side notch side is used there is not enough friction (scary!). Since I don't want to carry two devices (SBG and the ATC) it will go into my collection of unused belay/rappel devices. I may try another type of device that has the V-notches, until then it's back to the trusty ole' ATC.

[AJ]

My experience with this device is limited to two days this winter, but I liked it. We were using single ropes and I was able to lower my partner 50 meters smoothly and without having to use an extra change in direction. The device also worked well when belaying a second up a pitch. I never got to belay a leader, but the device doesn't lock up when you are pulling in slack and shouldn't when you are feeding slack through either. I'm still going to use my Trango Pyramid until I have enough time to decide if I like the Omega more. (I prefer the Trango Pyramid to the ATC, but I can understand why a lot of people like the ATC.) For what it is worth - the Metolius BRD is a pain and I would not recommend it.

[Guest]

I've been using the device since early January on 9mm ropes. Originally bought for its larger holes so I don't struggle to cram a 10.5 in during belay switches and on multiple rappels in the evening and to prevent locking when feeding the rope out fast.

-Larger hole size definitely works well (used last weekend w/2 10.5's);

-It shouldn't lock by design;

-Rapping works better than I thought after bad experience w/Trango's Jaws thingy, I easily locked with the left hand on the U side to take a screw off on rappel, in fact it felt better than any other device so far;

-Easy to lose when feeding the rope in/out. With ATC and alikes it is usually possible to feed in/take out always having the device somehow hooked to the carabiner by the wire loop. With SBG one can only feed the rope in/take out conveniently if the device is completely detached from the 'biner.

*Don't* fumble with it, especially on longer, expedition type outings!!!

Value: it's good, worth trying which I'll continue for the rest of the year. If considering a new device I'd advise this one against the "Jaws", Metolius and any other non-conventional shape, if happy with what you have no reason to spend extra money unless you like just trying new gear (like me).

NOTE: I have not tried Metolius belay device in "field conditions"!

[This message has been edited by rafael (edited 02-26-2001).]

[This message has been edited by rafael (edited 02-27-2001).]