Mt Rainier in Single Push

[Mike_Collins]

How about sticking to the original question guys?

On Saturday, June 16 I did a single push summit on Rainier. The strategy was to pick a day when conditions would be near perfect. Low freezing levels with clear skies. We left Paradise at 9:30PM Fri and arrived Camp Muir at 1:30AM. We stopped at the climbers hut to melt water, eat a little, and rest a bit. Jumping off at 3:00AM the we continued the climb via Ingraham Glacier and Disappointment Cleaver summiting at 8:00AM. Fatigue is the biggest factor and if you can get some rest on the jumpoff day it will serve you well. This early in the season Disappointment Cleaver is covered with snow so you can leave the helmet at home. The biggest risk really is the drive home and leave some type of caffeinated beverage in the car or rest once back at the car.

[dan_e]

So what is the question? Apparently the first post got out of control, as usual! I've done Rainier in a "Single Push", and what I can say is that lack of sleep was not a factor. What is a factor is that your ascending to 14,000' from almost sea-level (for most of us) in one day. This means you have no chance to acclimate. I remember at around 13,500' we rested for just a couple of minutes and I was feeling a bit light-headed, mainly due to the fact I was not breathing as hard while resting. So if you do it in a day, do it fast so you can beat the altitude sickness. My friend only had a slight headache at the summit, but the longer you take the better chance you have at getting some form of altitude sickness.

The first time I did it was with my friend Leo, he had just moved out here from back east and we wanted to climb Rainier together (it was my first attempt, he had been on the route before this). We though we had everything for a std. two day attempt, but I forgot the stove! So we decided to try it in one day. We left at around 3:00 am and made it to Muir in just under two-hours (we were pleased, as this is pretty fast). Side note to all the speed climbers: we had 'real' mountain climbing gear with us, insulated leather boots, steel crampons, and good sized day packs with ropes, extra clothing, ect. but no bivy gear. I don't believe in climbing a 14,000' peak in running shoes, regardless of the weather or time of year. I know we could have climbed a bit faster if we did, but climbing is not a race. The only reason to climb fast in my opinion is for safety and this holds true even on Rainier, for several factors like rock/icefall and weather.

Well, to include what Mike said and to add a few items for what I do on one-day ascents:

- Get an early start, climb as much as possible in the dark. (traveling by full moon is perfect). For Rainier try to be at Muir before sunrise.

- Try to do it under perfect, or near perfect conditions (cold/clear on the night before and clear, but not too warm during the day) Also, be smart and turn around if you see the weather starting to going bad.

- Stay hydrated! Bring a camelbak type device.

- Keep calorie intake up and consistant.

- Also, pick a turn-around time in case you don't have what it takes on that day.