Gumby Direct TR

[Raingoat]

Gumby Direct TR

 

The Gumby Direct, a new route put up two weeks ago saw the second and third ascents this weekend. A 500-foot grunt above open crevasses, the route follows a direct line up the south face of White River Glacier. Slopes graduated from 40 degrees to vertical.

 

At the base of the final headwall is the dreaded Moat. Climbing out of this overhung soft snow cave is the only challenge on the route. I took the liberty of two knee placements to clear the hurdle, and then a delightful vertical pitch to the top. Thankfully Kip led the moat move.

 

The only recommended descent is a double abseil on questionable bollards. If the top one fails, you'll only fall into the moat, but if the bottom one goes you’ll likely end up in a pool at the bottom of a crevasse.

 

Conditions now are questionably perfect: Hard and soft snow, intermittent ice, and some running water. The route will only be in shape for a short time, until the moat collapses into a jumble of dirt, rocks and ice!

 

The only nourishment we had for six hours was a bit of monkey chow and glacial ice to quench our thirsts. (The third team climbed slowly weighted down with full overnight bivy gear, headlamps, a gallon of water, and a rumored hacky sack.)

 

The approach follows “climber trails” across and up 1800 feet of the nastiest scree slopes on the mountain (one hour and 10 minutes, some go slower). At 7800 feet, traverse down the crumbling lateral moraine onto the glacier. Good luck, go fast, and don’t look back.

 

Tim

 

[ 09-09-2002, 05:02 PM: Message edited by: Raingoat ]

[Billy]

How many pickets do you need for the rappells?

[Raingoat]

No pickets for the abseil, just the bollards. We did carry a few for running pro on the climb up. Driven in with a hammer, they would have held an elephant's fall.

 

Tim