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Washington Pass


TimL

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Has anyone been up to Washington Pass lately? If so, did the Liberty Bell Group look like it was climable? Also, did anyone get a glimpse at Burgandy Spire. Did the North Face look like it was in condition yet. I'm sure the 2 large ledges still contain at least large patches of snow, but that probably to be expected. Thanks for any and all beta.

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The Liberty Bell massif is very climb-able right now.

In the past week, I've been on Liberty Bell twice (beckey route and rapple grapple) and both routes are in great shape, no water on either route. There is snow in the approach gully, but it seems to be melting very fast.

South Early Winter Spire still has patches of snow on the south arete (as of a few days ago) but it too is melting fast. The SW Couloir is completely melted out, though I ran into two british lads who trudged up the thing a few days ago (??????)

The north face of concord was still quite wet, with snowmelt running down it in large quantities. The tunnel route on concord still has a large snowpatch at the cave entrance.

Very large cornice collapses and even some climax avalanches have taken place over the last few weeks around wash. pass. Blue Lake Peak has an immense cornice on it which seems destined to collapse sooner rather than later.

In short, things are very climbable right now though it is recommended to be very alert to volatile snow conditions pertaining to avalanches and cornices right now.

I haven't been to burgundy but I imagine the north face is still wet and may not be in great shape yet this season. Burgundy Col itself is melted out and shows bare talus.

Hope this info is helpful to you and others.

Steve

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