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Not the most recent of info but I did the V-notch the last weekend of sept. and there was about 200' of water ice in the middle of the couloir, the rest was all great neve. See my section of the gallery for pics if you're interested...Perhaps I'll post up a pic from the icy section.

  • 2 weeks later...
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Couldn't get enough beta so I went to Right Mendel Couloir (w/ partner). somewhat unpleasant snow conditions in the boulder fields below couloirs and on descent. excellent, albeit brittle, ice in couloir that ran the entire upper length of the gully. several hundred feet of simulclimbing on neve to couloir split. one 70m pitch on neve over tricky rock move to screw belay. one 70m pitch on thick ice to rock belay. one 70m pitch on thick ice into upper narrow gully on mixed rock and ice to rock belay. short exit pitch on rock. lots of suffering and tears and whining on descent after reaching the Darwin Glacier. However, we did not get lost, which I assumed was certain in the dark.

 

I need better calf exercise.

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