East Buttress, North Early Winter Spire?

[eldiente]

I've heard rumors of a route talking a direct line up the East Buttress of North Early Winter Spire but I can't find very good beta on it. Anyone climbed this route or know anything about it? I heard it was around 5.9, 11 pitches. I'm familiar with the area but have a hard time picturing where exactly this route comes up or where it starts. Any info would be great.

 

Thanks

 

Nate

[forrest_m]

The route more-or-less is the buttress parallel to the DEB on the S. Spire. The description in the Beckey guide is pretty good, too bad the route sucks Only recommended for the washington pass completist - if the DEB is 4 stars, the E. Butt of the North is minus 2. Lots of traverses, gravel, trees and not-very-good rock.

 

Crux is on the second pitch, thin crack with lots of kitty-litter rock that doesn't feel very trustworthy (I pulled on gear for one move rather than risk falling on gear I thought would likely rip). Lots of traversing and low angle ground, then another hard (but short) pitch over a small roof into a chimney. After some more easy ground, another, slightly harder chimney, then easy ground to the top.

[Kyle_Flick]

Burdo's book (out of print I heard) has a good description complete with topo.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

I think it is in the beckey guide.

[curtveld]

Did it once. So far it's the only WA Pass route I couldn't recommend to anyone, for the reasons Forrest mentions. Some nice cracks up high, but lots of scary junk to get there.

[eldiente]

Good info. How about the West Face? 10d or so I'm told. I'm looking for a harder/clean route to the to of North Early. Any thoughts?

[Dr_Flush_Amazing]

West Face is awesome.

 

Stellar 10+ thin headwall crack.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

The NW Corner is awesome too.

[Blake]

Is that route the same as the "flycatcher"? Sounds like they are both not worth doing anyways.

[NYC007]

do the wface its worth it short though, bring some bigger pieces then do the corner