Stuart West Ridge-more beta than you take part 2

[altasnob]

Cluck’s excellent TR helped us immensely on the West Ridge so I feel obligated to help future Stuart climbers by making a few amendments:

[b]Timeline:[/b]
6:30 am - left bivy near the top of the first couloir you head up. 
10:30 am - reached W Ridge Notch
2:00 pm - summit
6:00 pm - arrived at Ingalls Creek trail via Cascadian couloir
9:00 pm - back at car

[b]Rack:[/b]
Small rack with gear to 3 inches. Lots of slings of various links for hooking horns and rapping in a pinch.

[b]Route:[/b]
Approached via Ingalls pass to Ingalls Lake. There were a few snow patches on the route but its wise to carry up all the water you’ll need from Ingalls Lake. Went on the right side of the lake and followed the obvious trail across towards the West Ridge of Stuart. Follow the trail up straight towards the vertical rock on Stuart. Traverse right when the trail ends the rock slide begins. Go past the first gulley (which you can see dead ends) and start heading up the second gulley.

[url=http://static.flickr.com/86/260291343_679ca637e6.jpg?v=0]http://static.flickr.com/86/260291343_679ca637e6.jpg?v=0[/url]

Up the gulley:
Scramble excellent 3rd class granite straight up this gulley all the way to the top. There are some minor branches & forks but just stay in the main gulley or take whichever branch looks like it will go further. We bivied halfway up this gulley, which appeared to be the most established camp spot on the entire route. There was room to pitch a small tent.

The beginning of the gulley and the excellent 3rd class granite.
[url=http://static.flickr.com/105/260291345_79a3a98bbc.jpg?v=0]http://static.flickr.com/105/260291345_79a3a98bbc.jpg?v=0[/url]

From the top of the first gulley traverse across the next gulley (not up towards the ridge crest). Climb the 3rd/4th class rock to easy ground where you can see to next gulley and Long John Tower.

Long John Tower:
LJT looks very imposing from here but it’s much easier than it looks. The easier rout is starts off towards the right and makes its ways back towards the saddle to the left of LJT.

This picture shows both route options:
[url=http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363LJT_Routes_V2.jpg]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363LJT_Routes_V2.jpg[/url]

LJT to West Ridge Notch:
From the saddle between LJT and the main ridge, follow a sandy path across and down a gulley for about 100 feet and then traverse left on a ledge around a rock buttress. You’ll have to make an awkward move that will probable require you to take off your pack to get around this ledge (see red dot in picture below). Once around the ledge, scramble back up the next gulley about 200 feet and look for the sandy path up the dark flake to your right.

Traversing left around the rock buttress:
[url=http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_9892.JPG]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_9892.JPG[/url]
[url=http://static.flickr.com/103/260291348_63f4481db8.jpg?v=0]http://static.flickr.com/103/260291348_63f4481db8.jpg?v=0[/url]

This sandy path leads you up to a cairn where there is a tunnel underfoot.

Tunnel underfoot:
[url=http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_9896.JPG]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_9896.JPG[/url]

The tunnel leads to an obvious trail on a ledge. Follow this ledge past a narrow, downward sloping slab (butt scootching may be required) and up an easier-than-it-looks chimney to another ridge crest.

Butt-scootch Slab:
[url=http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363erica_butt_schootch.jpg]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363erica_butt_schootch.jpg[/url]

Easier-than-it-looks Chimney:
[url=http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363EasierThanItLooksChimney.jpg]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363EasierThanItLooksChimney.jpg[/url]

There is actually another “tunnel” or boulder that you will pass under climbing up this chimney
[url=http://static.flickr.com/92/260291351_657025821e.jpg?v=0]http://static.flickr.com/92/260291351_657025821e.jpg?v=0[/url]

From here, look across polished granite slabs and easy ground towards “God’s Cairn,” which is a crazy balanced boulder on top of a tower. God’s Cairn is hard to make out until you’re right up next to it (see the red dot in the pic below).
[url=http://static.flickr.com/96/260291352_53ec4e094b.jpg?v=0]http://static.flickr.com/96/260291352_53ec4e094b.jpg?v=0[/url]

Traverse slightly downward across another gulley or two passing below God’s Cairn. Then turn left and walk up an obvious gulley that leads to the West Ridge notch.

West Ridge Notch to Summit:
Don’t bother roping up at the notch. Instead, scramble up on right of the ridge crest about a rope-length to a flat spot where the traverse over to the north side begins. Here is a good spot to rope up and several bivy spots.

Traverse out onto the North side of the ridge for about 20 feet on easy but exposed 4th class ledges and then take the first obvious path back up to the right and end at easy ground with another makeshift bivy. This pitch is almost exactly 30 meters. You will pass one piton on the route. 

Starting out onto the north side of the ridge:
[url=http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_9899.JPG]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_9899.JPG[/url]

Scramble right up blocky 3rd/4th class and then make your way back left up a 5.4 move for a rope length until you regain the ridge crest at a very sharp feature. From here, you can see a large, sandy ledge below and to your right. Down climb off the knife ridge and back up towards the sandy ledge and bivy.

Knife-edge ridge and ramp:
[url=http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_0002.JPG]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_0002.JPG[/url]

Sandy ledge and bivy, which is the start of the two final 5th class pitches:
[url=http://static.flickr.com/90/260294265_bf59614cba.jpg?v=0]http://static.flickr.com/90/260294265_bf59614cba.jpg?v=0[/url]

From here you’re only about 2 pitches below the summit but there are several variations.

There is an initial route up the West Ridge that’s in the Becky guide. I saw slings on this route and am guessing it’s the rap route:
[url=http://static.flickr.com/98/260294269_362e023302.jpg?v=0]http://static.flickr.com/98/260294269_362e023302.jpg?v=0[/url]

If you traverse out right from the sandy bivy spot, you will find the 5.6 layback crack variation. We took the blocky chimney directly above the bivy spot. The chimney we took had some trickey 5.7 moves:

Chimney above bivy spot:
[url=http://static.flickr.com/94/260294272_2ae2a2cf49.jpg?v=0]http://static.flickr.com/94/260294272_2ae2a2cf49.jpg?v=0[/url]

Regardless of which route you take you will likely end at another sandy, but smaller, bivy site. Continue up to the right around an awkward boulder on onto the final pitch. The last pitch follows a 5.4 dihedral with a 5.7 crux. There’s piton with a blue sling half way up. The pitch ends with 4th class to the summit. 

Descent:
To descend, down climb 100 follow a well-cairned path just below the ridge crest out towards the false summit. The basis/couloir coming off the true summit is Ulrich’s couloir (don’t take that). Continue either over or down and around to the right of the false summit into the Cascadian Couloir. There are several variations down Cascadian Couloir but they all involve a loose, steep decent (although never any harder than 3rd class). If you stay on a major route, you’ll minimize the bush whacking you’ll encounter. Find the major trail up Ingalls Creek and head back to the car via either Longs (shorter) or Ingalls Pass.

Descent options:
[url=http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363Descents1.jpg]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363Descents1.jpg[/url]     

[altasnob]

Try again-Cluck’s excellent TR helped us immensely on the West Ridge so I feel obligated to help future Stuart climbers by making a few amendments:

 

Timeline:

6:30 am - left bivy near the top of the first couloir you head up.

10:30 am - reached W Ridge Notch

2:00 pm - summit

6:00 pm - arrived at Ingalls Creek trail via Cascadian couloir

9:00 pm - back at car

 

Rack:

Small rack with gear to 3 inches. Lots of slings of various links for hooking horns and rapping in a pinch.

 

Route:

Approached via Ingalls pass to Ingalls Lake. There were a few snow patches on the route but its wise to carry up all the water you’ll need from Ingalls Lake. Went on the right side of the lake and followed the obvious trail across towards the West Ridge of Stuart. Follow the trail up straight towards the vertical rock on Stuart. Traverse right when the trail ends the rock slide begins. Go past the first gulley (which you can see dead ends) and start heading up the second gulley.

 

http://static.flickr.com/86/260291343_679ca637e6.jpg?v=0

 

Up the gulley:

Scramble excellent 3rd class granite straight up this gulley all the way to the top. There are some minor branches & forks but just stay in the main gulley or take whichever branch looks like it will go further. We bivied halfway up this gulley, which appeared to be the most established camp spot on the entire route. There was room to pitch a small tent.

 

The beginning of the gulley and the excellent 3rd class granite.

http://static.flickr.com/105/260291345_79a3a98bbc.jpg?v=0

 

From the top of the first gulley traverse across the next gulley (not up towards the ridge crest). Climb the 3rd/4th class rock to easy ground where you can see to next gulley and Long John Tower.

 

Long John Tower:

LJT looks very imposing from here but it’s much easier than it looks. The easier rout is starts off towards the right and makes its ways back towards the saddle to the left of LJT.

 

This picture shows both route options:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363LJT_Routes_V2.jpg

 

LJT to West Ridge Notch:

From the saddle between LJT and the main ridge, follow a sandy path across and down a gulley for about 100 feet and then traverse left on a ledge around a rock buttress. You’ll have to make an awkward move that will probable require you to take off your pack to get around this ledge (see red dot in picture below). Once around the ledge, scramble back up the next gulley about 200 feet and look for the sandy path up the dark flake to your right.

 

Traversing left around the rock buttress:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_9892.JPG

http://static.flickr.com/103/260291348_63f4481db8.jpg?v=0

 

This sandy path leads you up to a cairn where there is a tunnel underfoot.

 

Tunnel underfoot:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_9896.JPG

 

The tunnel leads to an obvious trail on a ledge. Follow this ledge past a narrow, downward sloping slab (butt scootching may be required) and up an easier-than-it-looks chimney to another ridge crest.

 

Butt-scootch Slab:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363erica_butt_schootch.jpg

 

Easier-than-it-looks Chimney:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363EasierThanItLooksChimney.jpg

 

There is actually another “tunnel” or boulder that you will pass under climbing up this chimney

http://static.flickr.com/92/260291351_657025821e.jpg?v=0

 

From here, look across polished granite slabs and easy ground towards “God’s Cairn,” which is a crazy balanced boulder on top of a tower. God’s Cairn is hard to make out until you’re right up next to it (see the red dot in the pic below).

http://static.flickr.com/96/260291352_53ec4e094b.jpg?v=0

 

Traverse slightly downward across another gulley or two passing below God’s Cairn. Then turn left and walk up an obvious gulley that leads to the West Ridge notch.

 

West Ridge Notch to Summit:

Don’t bother roping up at the notch. Instead, scramble up on right of the ridge crest about a rope-length to a flat spot where the traverse over to the north side begins. Here is a good spot to rope up and several bivy spots.

 

Traverse out onto the North side of the ridge for about 20 feet on easy but exposed 4th class ledges and then take the first obvious path back up to the right and end at easy ground with another makeshift bivy. This pitch is almost exactly 30 meters. You will pass one piton on the pitch.

 

Starting out onto the north side of the ridge:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_9899.JPG

 

Scramble right up blocky 3rd/4th class and then make your way back left up a 5.4 move for a rope length until you regain the ridge crest at a very sharp feature. From here, you can see a large, sandy ledge below and to your right. Down climb off the knife ridge and back up towards the sandy ledge and bivy.

 

Knife-edge ridge and ramp:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363IMG_0002.JPG

 

Sandy ledge and bivy, which is the start of the two final 5th class pitches:

http://static.flickr.com/90/260294265_bf59614cba.jpg?v=0

 

From here you’re only about 2 pitches below the summit but there are several variations.

 

There is an initial route up the West Ridge that’s in the Becky guide. I saw slings on this route and am guessing it’s the rap route:

http://static.flickr.com/98/260294269_362e023302.jpg?v=0

 

If you traverse out right from the sandy bivy spot, you will find the 5.6 layback crack variation. We took the blocky chimney directly above the bivy spot. The chimney we took had some trickey 5.7 moves:

 

Chimney above bivy spot:

http://static.flickr.com/94/260294272_2ae2a2cf49.jpg?v=0

 

Regardless of which route you take you will likely end at another sandy, but smaller, bivy site. Continue up to the right around an awkward boulder on onto the final pitch. The last pitch follows a 5.4 dihedral with a 5.7 crux. There’s piton with a blue sling half way up. The pitch ends with 4th class to the summit.

 

Descent:

To descend, down climb 100 follow a well-cairned path just below the ridge crest out towards the false summit. The basin/couloir coming off the true summit is Ulrich’s couloir (don’t take that). Continue either over or down and around to the right of the false summit into the Cascadian Couloir. There are several variations down Cascadian Couloir but they all involve a loose, steep decent (although never any harder than 3rd class). If you stay on a major route, you’ll minimize the bush whacking you’ll encounter at the bottom. Find the major trail up Ingalls Creek and head back to the car via either Longs (shorter) or Ingalls Pass.

 

Descent options:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/3363Descents1.jpg

[cluck]

Ha! Glad my dissertation came in handy

 

Sounds like you guys took exactly the same route we did. The West Ridge is such a great climb when you're not befuddled by routefinding questions. Glad you had as much fun as we did.