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Jeff Park conditions?

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I was there overnight Friday (27 July) and was turned back due to the weather Saturday am. It was perfect weather on the hike in, and the glacier looks like it has a line that will go. We were climbing by 2am but the snow was not firm...

Not that we got to too much snow as we were climbing in the clouds. It was foggy, windy and raining, I was very concerned about finding camp in the dark/fog/rain. I was truly not enjoying myself. We turned around without so much as touching the glacier itself and promptly got a little lost on the way back to camp but eventually made it. Lessons learned: 1) Pick your weather, 2)bring and USE wands, 3) if weather isn't good, stay at camp, 4) remember to ask if you're enjoying yourself and if not- TURN BACK!

But I digress back to route conditions. Doesn't look too bad. Large areas seemed to be completely melted out of snow/fern and had glacial ice exposed. The snow we did cross was very soft, so we had concerns for what might be higher- but there did appear to be a decent line around the schrunds (2, up high, and look passable both to the left or right of center- kind of ramp up on a slant). But remember- we didn't get onto the glacier and only saw it from a distance.

Did you have any specific questions?



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