The American Alpine Club E-News 9/06

[Dechristo]

I hope you will join me in sending best wishes to our neighbor to the north, the Alpine Club of Canada ( www.alpineclubofcanada.ca) as they celebrate their 100th year. The festivities culminate in October with over a week of activity in Banff, including the UIAA general assembly and the AAC Centennial Dinner. Details can be found at www.uiaainbanff.ca. Our entire board of directors will be in attendance, and we will be having our own fall board meeting in Banff on October 13.

 

Nazir Sabir, president of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, reports that 2007 will be “Visit Pakistan Year,” and the following rule changes will be in effect:

 

1. ZERO ROYALTY: Peaks up to 6,500 meters will be absolutely open to climb. No royalty fee will be charged.

2. TEN PERCENT: All mountains above 6,500 meters in Chitral, Gilgit, and Gizar will be charged only 10 percent of the standard royalty fee, with the exception of Spantik/Golden Peak.

3. WINTER SEASON: As a special incentive during the winter season (December to February), all peaks above 6,500 meters will bear a nominal fee of only 5 percent of the usual royalty.

4. HALF ROYALTY: The 50 percent discount on royalty fees that has been in effect since 2002 will continue on all peaks during 2007, except for the peaks mentioned in No. 2 above.

5. LIAISON OFFICER: The services of an LO will not be required by expeditions outside the Baltoro region.

6. PERMIT: Permits will be available for all peaks with one month’s notice.

 

On the home front, the hint of fall here in the Front Range heralds the end of the Club’s fiscal year. You will have received a fund-raising letter from AAC President Jim Donini. We are still behind for the year, so please consider responding with a check or visit the website to make a gift online.

 

Finally, development and marketing director Nigel Gregory has left the Club. In case you missed the last E-News, Charley Mace has joined us to manage relationships in the outdoor industry and with outreach in general.

 

Respectfully yours,

Phil Powers

Executive Director

ppowers@americanalpineclub.org

 

# ANTARCTIC PEAKS NAMED FOR 1966–67 EXPEDITION MEMBERS

 

 

On August 18, the USGS Advisory Committee on Antarctic Names (ACAN) approved the naming of eight sub-summits of the Vinson Massif for members of the AAC-sponsored 1966–67 expedition that made the first ascent of Antarctica’s highest peak. Damien Gildea of the Omega Foundation had proposed naming the peaklets for expedition leader Nick Clinch, Barry Corbet, Eiichi Fukushima, Charles Hollister, Brian Marts, Pete Schoening, Sam Silverstein, and Dick Wahlstrom; expedition members John Evans and Bill Long already have peaks named for them. In all, 48 new names in the Sentinel Range were approved by the USGS, including 17 glaciers, four mountains, 14 smaller peaks, eight ridges, two cols, a massif, a ledge, and a pinnacle, Gildea said. Clinch, a past president of the AAC, commented that he was just happy that he never had a crevasse named for him.

 

Nearly all of the newly named features will be included on the new Vinson Massif & The Sentinel Range 1:50,000 topographical map, based on a high-resolution satellite image collected for the Omega Foundation by Space Imaging. The map and USGS also have formalized the usage of Mt. Vinson (4,892 meters) for the highest summit of the Vinson Massif. For more information, please see www.theomegafoundation.org.

 

# BUY ART TO HELP JOHN BACHAR

Bachar on the Lamb

 

Two photographers are offering limited-edition photos of the great rock climber John Bachar, with all proceeds going to support Bachar’s recovery from a car accident in August. Bachar suffered several broken vertebrae in his neck and back in the accident, which killed his friend and business partner, Steve Karafa, owner of the Acopa shoe distributorship in the United States; Bachar has had successful surgery to repair the damage to his spine.

 

Photographer Phil Bard is selling special-edition prints of Bachar climbing during the 1980s, at the peak of his powers; to see the five photos being offered, visit www.cirrus-digital.com/bachar.html. Climber Karl Bralich, meanwhile, is selling recent photos of Bachar soloing routes in Joshua Tree; see these at www.peaklightimages.com/. A fundraiser for Bachar will be held at the Village at Mammoth, California, at 7 p.m. on September 15, with a gear raffle and slideshow by Peter Croft ($10 admission fee). Financial contributions also can be made to the John Bachar Fund, American Alpine Club, 710 10th St., Suite 100, Golden, CO 80401; any excess funds will be used to support Steve Karafa’s family.

 

Photo: John Bachar, On the Lamb in Tuolumne. Photo by Phil Bard.

 

# AAJ and “ACCIDENTS” SHIPPING

 

 

The 2006 editions of the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering, along with the summer edition of the quarterly American Alpine News, will ship this week from Colorado. Please allow several weeks for delivery. If you haven't received the publications by the middle of October, you may contact the AAC at getinfo@americanalpineclub.org or 303-384-0110..

 

# SPITZER RECIPIENTS CLIMB IN PAKISTAN

Spitzer 2006

 

Two teams of U.S. climbers backed by Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Awards experienced partial success in Pakistan this summer. Micah Dash and Eric DeCaria made the second ascent of 17,585-foot Cat’s Ear Spire, climbing a 12-pitch variation to the 3,500-foot original route (Copp-Pennings, 2000). The two climbed alpine-style in a four-day round trip and placed no pitons or bolts on the spire. They had intended to try a new route on Uli Biaho, but timing with the weather and the illness of their other teammate, Spitzer recipient Mike Schaeffer, prevented an attempt. Schaeffer contracted severe HAPE and was evacuated by helicopter from base camp. The two also attempted a repeat of the route Inshallah on Shipton Spire (Davis-Harvey-Shaw, 1998), but discovered after climbing nine pitches that a major portion of the route apparently had fallen off, possibly during the 2005 earthquake.

 

Elsewhere in Pakistan, Kelly Cordes and Spitzer recipient Josh Wharton climbed 45 pitches to complete the spectacular north ridge of 18,373-foot Shingu Charpa, but their decision to bring only lightweight footwear prevented them from reaching the true summit of the peak. The ridge was climbed to the summit earlier in the summer by a Ukrainian trio. Cordes said the route went all-free at 5.11+ M5, climbed alpine-style over three days, with a fourth day to descend.

 

Spitzer grantee Mike Libecki is still in the field at press time, exploring a region of remote big walls in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. For more info on the Spitzer grants program, visit www.americanalpineclub.org/pages/page/64.

 

Photo: (Top) Cat Ear's Spire. Photo by Micah Dash. (Bottom) North Ridge, Shingu Charpa. Photo by Kelly Cordes.

 

# TREKKERS REQUIRED TO REGISTER

 

 

All trekkers (and presumably climbers) visiting the open areas of Nepal will be required to pay a nominal fee for a new Trekking Registration Certificate (TRC) from the Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN), starting October 1. The program is designed to control illegal guiding in Nepal and to monitor the number of trekkers in the country. At press time, it was still unclear whether the new rules also would require independent trekkers to use a guide or trekking agency; information from Nepal was conflicting on this question. For the latest on the TRC process, visit the TAAN website at www.taan.org.np.

 

# CENTRAL ROCKIES SECTION BUSTS BUTTS

Lumpy Trails

 

In late August, several members of the AAC’s Central Rockies Section volunteered with the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative (www.14ers.org) for a weekend of trail work on 14,018-foot Pyramid Peak, near Aspen. “Though bad weather inhibited a day’s worth of work, the teams were able to get out for part of the weekend to hoist large rocks and dig in the mud,” reports AAC Board member Charlotte Fox. Want to get dirty yourself? The Central Rockies Section will be working on the climber trails of popular Lumpy Ridge in Rocky Mountain National Park on October 15. Contact section chair Greg Sievers for more info or to preregister and earn a free lunch and T-shirt: gsievers57@cs.com.

 

# AAC FUNDS ALPINE PLANT RESEARCH

 

 

The AAC is one of several backers of an ambitious plan to monitor alpine plants atop some of Colorado’s high peaks. This Mountain Studies Institute program, led by Dr. Koren Nydick, is part of the worldwide Global Observation Research Initiative in Alpine Environments (GLORIA); there are four GLORIA target regions in North America and 30 worldwide. The program will observe the effects of climate change on alpine ecosystems over many years.

 

In late July and early August, team members prepared low-impact monitoring plots on four summits near Lake City, Colorado, ranging in elevation from 12,195 feet to 13,800 feet. The plots are located at the four cardinal points, no more than 100 meters from the peak, and they are intended to be observed repeatedly at no more than five-year intervals, with temperature sensors downloaded every two to three years. For more information on the GLORIA project, visit www.gloria.ac.at/res/gloria_home, or to learn more about the AAC-backed Colorado project contact Dr. Nydick at koren@mountainstudies.org.

 

# HOW TO: THE GEAR FOR NANGA PARBAT

 

 

Patagonia has produced a couple of great short videos of Steve House discussing the gear and clothing that he and Vince Anderson used on their 2005 ascent of the direct Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat. These vids demonstrate the care that goes into House's decisions on how to fill his pack, from fascinating gear modifications to seemingly frivolous items that he feels are worth the extra grams (e.g., a pot gripper for cooking). The two videos combined run about 20 minutes and are worth every second; a cool Nanga Parbat slide show is also featured. Check it out at www.patagonia.com.

 

# WEBSITE FEATURES COREY RICH IMAGES

Coreyography

 

Ace photographer Corey Rich has loaned 18 inspiring climbing images to be featured on the home page of the new AAC website. From bouldering to big walls, these photos will have you itching to climb. Check ’em out at www.americanalpineclub.org. And to see more of Rich’s stunning photography, visit www.coreyography.com.

 

# CAMP 4 TO BE CELEBRATED

 

 

On October 1 at 2 p.m., the AAC’s Sierra Nevada Section will host a ceremony at Columbia Boulder in the heart of Yosemite Valley’s Camp 4, celebrating the plaque that marks the campground’s inclusion in the National Register of Historic Places. Tom Frost, Dick Duane, and the AAC led the effort to gain the historic designation. The section will provide cake and soft drinks to help celebrate. This event will take place during the annual Yosemite Facelift, and AAC members who volunteer to help clean up the park will have access to free camping on the nights of September 29 and 30. Contact Linda McMillan at linda@mountains-wcpa.org.

 

# NEW YORK SECTION EXPEDITION FLAG

NY Logo

 

Responding to requests from New York Section members attempting noteworthy climbs, the section has created its own flag that may be carried by qualified teams. A Section Flag Committee will decide on appropriate recipients, based in part on the difficulty, remoteness, infrequency, beauty and style of the ascent. Recipients will be asked to contribute a section slideshow (and to return the flag!). Interested parties should contact the Section Chairman Phil Erard at philiperard@hotmail.com.

 

Coming Events

September 14-17

Utah

Fifth Annual Climb for Life in Salt Lake, with parties, film festival, seminars with top climbers, hosted by Black Diamond. All ages and abilities welcome; proceeds benefit ovarian cancer research. Early registration advised. See www.climb4lifeslc.kintera.org.

 

 

 

 

September 14

Utah

13th annual Utah Avalanche Center fundraising party, 6 p.m. at the Black Diamond world headquarters: 2084 East 3900 South, Salt Lake City. Info: 801-365-5522.

 

 

 

 

September 15

California

Fund-raiser for John Bachar and the estate of Steve Karafa at the Village at Mammoth, with a gear raffle and slideshow by Peter Croft ($10 admission fee), 7 p.m. Info: 760-934-4191.

 

 

 

 

September 16

Utah

The Friends of Indian Creek host the Bridger Jack Campground Adopt-A-Crag event. Info at www.friendsofindiancreek.org.

 

 

 

 

September 22

Colorado

The fifth annual Avalanche Jam, hosted by Backcountry Access (BCA), will take place from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. outside the American Mountaineering Center in Golden. The Avalanche Jam is a fundraiser for the Colorado Avalanche Information Center (CAIC). Music, food, silent auction, and more. Tickets $35 in advance, $40 at the door. Info at 303-417-1345.

 

 

 

 

September 23-24

California

The Sierra Nevada Section’s annual Pinecrest Climb-munity. Hosted by Royal and Liz Robbins, this popular event features climbing at Gianelli Edges and camping near Pinecrest Lake, about 30 miles from Sonora. Info: david.riggs@schwab.com.

 

 

 

 

September 27-October 1

California

Annual Yosemite Facelift, sponsored by the Yosemite Climbing Association. Meet at the visitor center each day at 8 a.m. Raffle, waived park entry fee, and free camping (first come, first served) for participants. Contact Ken Yager at yager@inreach.com or visit www.yosemiteclimbing.org.

 

 

 

 

September 29-October 1

New York

The New York Section hosts its annual Ausable Club Weekend deep in the Adirondacks: climbing, clinics, hiking, canoeing, golf, and tennis, along with dinner, a slideshow, and lodging in Ausable Club cottages. Contact philiperard@nysalpineclub.org.

 

 

 

 

September 30

Colorado

Annual clean-up at Rifle Mountain Park, the popular limestone sport-climbing area, sponsored by Climbing magazine. Trail maintenance, bridge construction, BBQ, and party. Contact gregloomis@climbing.com.

 

 

 

 

September 30

Colorado

Colorado Mountain Club Mountain Fest at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden. Clinics, slideshow, happy hour, Taste of the Mountains Himalayan picnic. Reservations required for dinner ($15). Info at 303-279-3080, ext. 2, or www.cmc.org.

 

 

 

 

September 30

California

Premiere of Allen Steck’s film of the third ascent of El Capitan’s Salathé Wall, Yosemite Lodge Amphitheater. Narrated by Steck. Free.

 

 

 

 

October 6-7

Idaho

Join the Northern Rockies Section at City of Rocks for the annual Moondance. The section has reserved the Upper Breadloaves group campsite among the popular granite crags and will host a grilled dinner on Oct. 7. Info: brian.cabe@atk.com.

 

 

 

 

October 13

Alberta, Canada

The AAC will hold its fall board of directors meeting at the Banff Park Lodge, in conjunction with the UIAA General Assembly and the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) centennial dinner. Contact ppowers@americanalpineclub.org. Details of ACC events at www.alpinecluborcanada.ca.

 

 

 

 

October 13-15

Kentucky

Annual Rocktoberfest at the Red River Gorge. Info: www.rrgcc.org/rocktoberfest2006/.

 

 

 

 

October 15

Colorado

Sixth annual Lumpy Trails Day with the Central Rockies Section. Trail work at the popular Lumpy Ridge crags of Rocky Mountain National Park. Email Greg Sievers at gsievers57@cs.com to register early and receive a free lunch and T-shirt.

 

 

 

 

October 21

New Hampshire

New England Section members will gather at Nancy Savickas’ “Refuge Alpiniste” in Albany after climbing, for refreshments, eats, slides, and lie-telling. Info: nj_savickas_28@hotmail.com.

 

 

 

 

October 27-29

California

The Friends of Joshua Tree will host the 10th annual Climb Smart event at Indian Cove group campground in Joshua Tree National Park. Clinics, dinner, music, slide show, and more. For more information or to register, go to www.friendsofjosh.org.

 

 

 

 

November 11

New York

The 27th annual Black Tie Dinner of the AAC’s New York Section, at the Union Club in Manhattan, with special guest Charles S. Houston, M.D. Invitations will be sent to all New York Section members and previous attendees in late September. Others desiring invitations should email Phil Erard at philiperard@nysalpineclub.org.

 

 

 

 

March 30–April 1, 2007

Oregon

The 2007 AAC Mountain Fest and annual meeting will be in Bend, Oregon, close to the superb rock climbs of Smith Rock and the backcountry skiing and climbing in the Cascades. Reserve a room at the Riverhouse hotel and request an AAC rate as low as $72 a night: 1-800-547-3928.