chris Posted August 27, 2006 Posted August 27, 2006 Climb: Palisades-Polemonium/N. Palisade/Starlight, V 5.4 Date of Climb: 8/21/2006 Trip Report: I had a particularly challenging week with a client/partner, Pen. Pen was hankering to climb Starlight, North Palisade, and Polemonium. Pen had attempted these peaks, individually or together, multiple times, and had been thwarted by weather and fitness limits. So what was going to happen this time? Pen chose to access the Palisades from the west side, where the easiest routes are found, but the approach is certainly more strenuous than the hike up from Glacier Lodge. We took the approach easy, spending a night at the South Bishop Pass Lake (my name), and taking a full second day to traverse the final 2.5 miles across Dusy Basin, over Thunderbolt Col, and to our camp. Pen is particularly troubled by talus, so instead of dropping down to Thunderbolt Tarn, we camped at the very top of the rib of rock that runs east/west, immediately south of the tarn, from the Barret Lakes to 12,400’ in the talus field underneath the Palisades. This meant we had to bring in extra fuel to melt snow, but I thought the weight was worth the time saved in this case. Now we were all set for our first objective, Starlight Peak, via the Northwest Chutes (III, 4th class, with a 5.4 summit block). That morning Pen begged off, saying that her knees were just hurting too much and she needed a rest day. So I took an easy hike in afternoon, traversing the ridge from Thunderbolt Col to a point overlooking the Palisade Basin, and trying to solve a puzzling question. How was I going to help Pen accomplish three peaks in only two days? The only solution I could think of was to not come down. I told Pen of my idea and conditions for its success, she agreed and we left a little before 7am on the fourth day. We traversed the talus field south and started up the Southwest Chute of Polemonium, which tops out at the U-Notch. I use a different route than that described by Steve Porcella and Cameron Burns in their Climbing California’s Fourteeners, staying right up the gullies instead of left, but the end result is the same. We gained the U-Notch at 12:00am, and after a short break charged up Polemonium. The second rap anchor was two horns slung individually, but someone had backed up one of the slings with a nut without any adjustments, creating an “American Death Triangle”! So I nicked the nut, equalized the slings, and called it good. Back at the notch at 3:30pm, we used a Jetboil stove to refill our hydration bags, fill up a 3-Liter Dromedary bag, cook dinner and a round of hot drinks. And then it was time to pack up and head for North Palisade. I prefer to climb the upper traverse, called the Moore Variation in Secor’s book. Even though its 3rd/4th class, it’s still faster, easier to protect, and can be broken into smaller pitches to keep in view. I also prefer to descend the original traverse because you can quickly rappel the 30m, 4th class pitch, and a short 3rd class traverse is flatter and easier to descend. Climbing the traverse with a pack really woke Pen up to the challenges we were facing. Three more steps up and around chock stones gained the southwest bowl beneath the summit. A short hike and scramble gained a bivy ledge immediately below the catwalk at 7:30pm. We put aside enough water to have coffee and oatmeal in the morning, and drank the rest of the dromedary bag, still thirsty despite drinking our fill at the notch. On the fifth day, the wind from the east kept us huddled in our sleeping bags, handing mugs and bowls back and forth as I boiled water. We finally left our tiny bivy ledge at 9:00am, and we were on the summit only an hour and a half later. This was our Point of No Return – if we continued on our plan we were committing to another 12-hour day at least. Pen was still willing to go on, so we left the summit quickly. The first rappel is immediately north of the summit register, easy to spot, and 30m long. The primary anchor is two faded slings, backed up poorly by someone’s 8mm cord, so I built a new anchor with a bit of 8.6mm rope that had been retired and brought specifically for this contingency. Because of the wind I lowered Pen down on one strand, and then counter-balanced a rappel on the other strand. This brought us to a small ledge, and required a short down climb to gain the traverse pitch – I protected Pen by slinging a horn high with cord and a quick link, which she left behind for some other lucky soul. I broke the traverse into a longer pitch across the slabs to a corner, then a quick 3rd class down climb around a corner to the Clyde Couloir notch. A short 10m lower/counter balance rappel leads to a full 30m rappel down the west side and to the top of the Clyde Couloir ice. A 30m 4th class traverse and down-climb protected by that Polemonium nut and 30m 3rd class climb lead to the Starlight notch at 2pm. Three short pitches led to the summit block. The climbing was given as 4th class, but Pen called it “5-fun”. Looking at the time and checking her internal gauges, Pen opted not to climb the 5.4 “Milk Bottle” summit block. Instead she signed the register and we took off for the rappel anchors. Again we did lowers and counter balanced rappels, and left the notch shortly after 4:00pm for the Northwest Chute, with the time pressing onto our shoulders. One full 30m rappel leads to endless 3rd class down-scrambling. When I read the route descriptions, the section covering the upper part of the route, the upper Starlight Chute, sounds very short. In pictures it appears to be only 1/3 of the route. In fact it’s much longer, easily 2/3 of the route. And the traverse that everyone talks about? You’d need to be hit between the eyes with a 2x4 to miss it. It appears immediately before the Starlight Chute narrows into scariness and you spot it immediately before the second 30m rappel, leading directly to the start of the traverse. If your ascending the route, just keep right and the notch will quickly come into view. To make better time I opted to lower Pen a full 50m+ down slabs from the notch, and quickly down-climbed to join her. We gained the top of the final 4th class section just as it was getting dark, and put on headlamps for the final two rappels to the talus field below. We dead-reckoned down the talus to within 10m of camp, quickly found, and walked in at 10:00pm. A pasta dinner was eaten, hot drinks and shots of whisky to celebrate were quickly drunk and then our beds were sought. When I finally turned off my headlamp to fall asleep it was midnight. On the final sixth day I let Pen sleep in, hoping the extra rest would help her recovery and make our hike out easier. We finally left camp at 11:00am, moving a little faster than on the hike in, and made it to the trail head at 7:30pm. Conclusion This traverse is officially my favorite way to gain these summits. Strong climbers should have no problem climbing North Palisade/Starlight in a day, and could even link up Polemonium if you’re willing to start and finish close to dark. I last climbed this traverse in 2004, and this year I found most of the rappel anchors changed or missing, and required modification or backing up to give me peace. Extra rappel material is strongly recommended. The Original Chimney (2 pitches, 5.4), and the Clyde Variation (4th class) are great alternatives to the Moore Variation of the LeConte Route. Gear Notes: Strictly for the climb sleeping bags pads Jetboil stove with one canister hydration bags MSR 3-Liter Dromedary bag snacks for two days, dinner, breakfast, and hot drinks 60m, 9.2mm rope 3 cams, #1, 2, and 3 one set of stoppers four slings with carabiners 6 locking carabiners and belay devices extra rope for rappel anchors I wish I had More quick links to speed up rappels Approach Notes: 6 miles of trail to Bishop Pass, 2 miles of moderate cross country with routefinding to Thunderbolt Col, >0.5 mile to camp at Thundrebolt Tarn. Feel free to PM me if you want detailed directions to Palisade Basin or my alternative route up Polemonium's Southwest Chute. Quote
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