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Posted

Really depends on the snow pack. It's much safer once the lower approach gully has slid out and solidified, and if the upper gully is soft, it's a world class postholing experience. The upper gully is an excellent glissade once settled.

Also, if you haven't been up there before, it's easy to get confused getting off the trail and transitioning to the lower gully.

Posted

The first time I was up there I got I got confused off the Trail Head. So that is true.. As far as access it should be no problem. I was up there last March, and also last April. April was perfect but it was also a low snow fall year. The March was perfect also but the weather got preety bad.. There was snow at the normal Camping spot in March and not it april. It should be no problem though.The glissading was excellent. As far as the Traverse it was preety basic. We roped up anyway. We didnt need crampons couse of soft snow. I mean Im no expert but I thought I would say something.

[ 03-05-2002: Message edited by: climberbro16 ]

Posted

I`ve tried the traverse solo in winter but was stopped because I had no rope for a obligatory rappel that is just down from the south summit, so bring a rope.

Also, there was a fire a few years ago that closed the approach to the north peak. You might want to call the rangers and see what the condition of the north peak descent is now.

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