The Brothers - SE Gully #2

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What: The Brothers - SE Gully #2

Who: Dave, Emily, Benji, Natalie

When: May1997

Follow the Lena Lake trail until about 0.5 miles past the lake. Turn off on obvious trail and hike next three miles up into the Valley of Silent Men. After about 3.6 miles

there are several campsites around the creek. Follow the left fork of the creek uphill until a large snowpatch is reached.

Route #2 in the olympics guidebook climbs the rocky cliffs next to the

waterfall until the SE spur is reached. This route involves some exposed class 4, and perhaps some short sections of class 5 depending on the particular line. A rope should

most probably be carried for this section because it was found to be wet. (The standard route continues past the snowpatch through the woods along side the west branch of the creek. )

Start up the rock on the left, skirting to the edge of the large moat. Working up through trees and then easier open rock until a bench is reached next to the waterfall. Climb around right to a higher ledge, and then up a short low-fifth wet section to easier low angled rock. Above, angle left of wet headwall and into trees with snow cover. This places you on the "Lunch Counter" of the standard route. Follow the 25-30 degree gully above to a col at its head. Just down from the crest on the S side, there is a crack in the cliff that allows for easy scrambling up to the summit. Expect 4-6 hours up from campsites along river to here.

Descend the standard route with excellent glissades until a climbers path leads you back to campsites. If you bring a rope, a few medium sized chocks will protect any climbed you need to do. Best in early season before the snow of the standard gully melts out.