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Posted

Hi all, I'll be in the area for the first time ever in a couple weeks. Hoping to line up partners for my time at Smith. I'll be available to climb in the afternoon of the 23rd and all day the 24th and 25th. Will trad or sport, will bring rack and rope; can lead up to 5.7 trad (or soft 5.8, I'm used to the Gunks) and follow up to 5.10. On sport, I max out around 5.11.

 

Also, any suggestions on routes I *must do* while here are welcome.

 

Thanks!

Jen

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Posted

Jen, I can at least suggest climbs to do. There are some good trad lines 5-9 and under in the park, as opposed to the lower gorge where most of the lines are 5-10a and up.

 

Moscow (5-6), Super Slab (5-6) and Spiderman (5-7) are easy but classic trad multis. Lion's jaw (5-8), moonshine dihedral (5-9), testament crack (soft 10a) are good single pitch trad lines. These are all in the park (not the gorge or marsupials)

 

The Phoenix (10a), Nine gallon Buckets (9+, or 10c if you go all the way), More Sandy than Kevin (10d/11a), Caffeine Free (10c but really 10a), Toxic (11b), Blackened (11b), John Galt Line (11a/b, Reason to Be (10d) and Hissing Llamas (5-8) are good sport lines in the Park.

 

Seasons Change (11a) and Wherevere I May roam (9) are good sport multis.

 

have fun!

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