selkirk Posted July 26, 2006 Posted July 26, 2006 Probably no need to post the full trip report but I thought I would update the conditions on Shuksan. High Camp: The rangers don't realy like you camping at the little saddle just past the official "high camp" as your too far away from the composting toilets. Even if you have blue bags.... Also, they don't like you sleeping anywhere but on the snow. Glacier: Cracks are starting to open up. Saw a reasonable number of 6 inch to 1 foot cracks last weekend mostly in the flat area below the summit, with a few larger ones off to climbers right on the ascent. Snow conditions were great, well consolidated snow, no post holing at all, and made for an easy climb/descent. Would have been nice to have a slightly lower freezing level as the snow was pretty soft (I had a little bit of balling), even at 3:00 am. The summit pyramid seemed easiest to access high and climbers right. The slightly shitty loose gully is of course slightly shitty and looze. Trail: Black flies galore, move fast or bring bug repelent. For some reason they like to fly into my ears. Are they that enamored with ear wax? Bugs cleared a bit once you get onto the ridge leading to the saddle, and cleared completely once on the snow. All in all it's in great shape to get! Quote
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