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TR: Return To The Tooth


still_climbin

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Its been over 30 years, but I returned to the Tooth last Thursday to give my son his first alpine rock experience. He's been working in Albuquerque and doing mostly sport and bouldering climbs there. It had rained hard the night before and it was a bit of a gamble that the rain would stop and things would dry out.

 

The approach was in a light mist and we were drenched by rain water clinging to the brush. Just as we reached Pinapple Pass the sun broke through and the south facing face dried within minutes. The climb was pretty much as I remembered it from the 70's, fun faces and big ledges. I still couldn't find the 5.4 ramp supposedly on the left side of the last pitch, but we just plowed up the middle on easy rock like I'd done before. My son loved it and we made plans on the summit to do two more alpine climbs within his visit.

 

Conditions: Still quite a bit of snow on the upper approach. Nearly called for crampons since it had been unseasonably cold the night before. Rapp route down the east side of Pinapple Pass was in good shape and saved time versus down climbing to the west. Some pics:

 

 

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Edited by still_climbin
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