[TR] Sahale Peak- Sahale Snowfield 7/17/2006

[scot'teryx]

Climb: Sahale Peak-Sahale Snowfield

 

Date of Climb: 7/17/2006

 

Trip Report:

Left Everett at 4am and headed to Cascade Pass TH. Almost clipped 2 different bear cubs on the way there, one was right next to the Mineral Creek Campground, and the other was a few miles from the Eldo TH.

 

Daunting Peaks from the trailhead

 

Left a busy TH (20 cars, only 4 at Eldo) @ 715am and kept a fast pace up to the pass, arriving at 820. Awesome day, no clouds, only sun.

 

Cache Col & Glacier from Cascade Pass

 

Only a few spots on the trail heading up to the arm that had snow on them, and a few other spots after that on the actual arm before you hit high camp. Saw several groups on the way down that only stayed the night there, so once we got to camp, there was no one there.

 

Sahale from the Lower Arm

 

Roped up since we brought the rope and headed up. Trail actually went over both of the gapers that open late season on skiers left, but much more direct for sure.

 

Sahale Glacier

 

Snow went all the way up to the east ridge shoulder, and we only had to scramble 1-200 feet to gain the traverse into the gulley. Brent and Raef both thought we did not have to pitch out the route so we all climbed solo. I had forgotten how fun the rock is for the last 30 feet or so, the rock actually gets pretty solid.

 

 

Summit Scramble

 

Met our friend Ed who had come up the night beofre and waited for us. 2 other climbers were on the summit that had climbed the QS Glacier. We ate and set up the rap down the south face. Only 1 sling was there so we added ours and left a biner (I'm sure the 2 QS climbers took it, I would have). The second rap station is there with an old pink runner, but we had a 60 which got us down to the snow.

 

Rap route on the south face

 

J-Berg and the Hangers

 

I finally got to see Mountain Goats, whom I have never run into in the past 5 years.

Quick trip out, glissaded the last hump down to the high camp and shuffled our way out.

 

Forbidden from the Sahale Arm

Counted at least 45+ people on the way up that day. Back at the car at 415pm. Used my Salomon tennies for the entire trip which worked out nicely, ankles a little sore from the shuffle down the 33+ switchbacks from CP.

 

Good food at Cascadia Pizza in Sedro Wooley.

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, no pons, 60m 8.1

 

Approach Notes:

Road open to TH, glacier has no open crevasses, some laterals near camp. Snow in gulley just below the traverse

[scot'teryx]

Pictures coming soon, and now they are here.

Edited July 19, 2006 by scot'teryx

[rubberhands]

Super Rad Pictures... Who was that rad dude leading accross the rock?