Boots for Sierra Nevada Ice &Rock

[framingmaster]

I'm climbing Polemonium Peak by way of the V notch and North Palisade by way of the U notch in mid September. Should I wear my LS Nepal Evo GTX or LS Trango S evo Gtx

[Mark_Husbands]

the middle third of the V-notch gully could be smooth, moderate angled blue ice by september. i would select something comfortable for frontpointing.

[bigbro]

The gullies will most likely be boiler plate ice all the way. I have climbed U notch in September with Kayland Multi-Tractions and had no problem frontpointing. The Trango Evos have a similar flex, as I recall. Having some flex is nice for the approach and talus field. FYI, I have seen guys up there in september, in plastics!

[RogerJ]

One think I noticed on my Trango S Evos is that the nice toe "rocker" makes a huge gap in many crampons that are not geared towards a flexing 3/4 shank sole.

 

Did you find this true wiht the Kaylands? What did you do about it(if anything)?

 

Thanks

 

-r

[bigbro]

The rocker vs. crampon issue has not been a problem with the Kaylands. My Grivel 2F's fit like a glove. They don't have a lot of "rocker" and the 2F pivots differently than other crampons. I know that a lot of boot-makers currently use the "rocker" type. It seems to be more and more common. It's a great idea but maybe they should have consulted the crampon makers. I know this has been a headache for at least one crampon company. I don't really have a solution other than a few love taps with a hammer. Some of the Petzl/Charlet crampons bend/comform pretty easily. Good luck!