framingmaster Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 I'm climbing Polemonium Peak by way of the V notch and North Palisade by way of the U notch in mid September. Should I wear my LS Nepal Evo GTX or LS Trango S evo Gtx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark_Husbands Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 the middle third of the V-notch gully could be smooth, moderate angled blue ice by september. i would select something comfortable for frontpointing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbro Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 The gullies will most likely be boiler plate ice all the way. I have climbed U notch in September with Kayland Multi-Tractions and had no problem frontpointing. The Trango Evos have a similar flex, as I recall. Having some flex is nice for the approach and talus field. FYI, I have seen guys up there in september, in plastics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RogerJ Posted July 17, 2006 Share Posted July 17, 2006 One think I noticed on my Trango S Evos is that the nice toe "rocker" makes a huge gap in many crampons that are not geared towards a flexing 3/4 shank sole.  Did you find this true wiht the Kaylands? What did you do about it(if anything)?  Thanks  -r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbro Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 The rocker vs. crampon issue has not been a problem with the Kaylands. My Grivel 2F's fit like a glove. They don't have a lot of "rocker" and the 2F pivots differently than other crampons. I know that a lot of boot-makers currently use the "rocker" type. It seems to be more and more common. It's a great idea but maybe they should have consulted the crampon makers. I know this has been a headache for at least one crampon company. I don't really have a solution other than a few love taps with a hammer. Some of the Petzl/Charlet crampons bend/comform pretty easily. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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