GLACIER

[Jamin]

http://www.trailjournals.com/photos.cfm?id=118591&back=1

My nemesis!

 

I have the 19th 20th and part of the 21st off. Anybody want to come along on this awesome climb. Glacier experience is not completely necessary, but it would be very useful. The crevasses will be opening up soon so crevasse rescue experience would also be a plus. I need a partner badly so I would take nearly anyone. However, you will need to at least bring a harness. I will also put forth the requirement that anyone who goes with me must be able to consistently do around 800 feet of vert in one hour on trail. Some scrambling experience is also mandatory. Reportedly, there is some 3-4th class or steep ice climbing on the route.

 

We would be going in via the disappointment cleaver route, which, since 2003, is the easiest route on the mountain. This route has less ice than any other route. To get to the summit will require a little more than 10500 feet of gain and 15 miles of hiking and climbing. About one mile will be on glacial ice, and 9.3 miles will be on a very good trail. I will be willing to carry the rope, which will be necessary for the walk on the retreating White Chuck Glacier

 

On my last attempt in 2004, I merely made it a little past White Pass because my brother got stomach flu and was throwing up. It was probably a good thing because I was completely unprepared for a climb of this magnitude. After doing Dome, which was probably more difficult than this climb, I believe that I finally am ready. I already know the route all the way to the White Chuck Glacier. I almost guarantee that a strong party would be able to make it to 8000 feet on the first day. It generally takes 5.5 hrs to get to White Pass.

 

I would also appreciate advice from other people who have done this climb. If you have the slightest scrap of info, let me know.

 

I would recommend that you do not miss this climb. If I were you, I would ask for time off work. It is worth it. Glacier Peak is a true wilderness volcano. It is climbed less than any other major peak in the state. It is also number 5 on the hundred highest list. Most of the information on the net is from before October 2003, when Glacier Peak could be done in a day

http://www.summitpost.org/object_list.php?parent_id=155642&object_type=3

http://www.summitpost.org/route/155642/disappointment-cleaver-gerdine-ridge.html#chapter_2

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glacier_Peak

http://www.peakbagger.com/peak.aspx?pid=1972

http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/GlacierPk2/GlacierPk2.html

Edited July 13, 2006 by Jamin

[Jamin]

I just found this picture on the net. It appears that Disappointment Peak may be difficult and time-consuming to climb over so I am thinking about climbing around it via the Cool Glacier.

 

http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=128751&context_id=155642

[SilverGoat]

Jamin,

 

Three of us are planning a similar trip 7/20-7/22. If you don't get any takers, send me a PM and maybe you'll want to join us.

 

Ken