Eastern Sierra Condition Reports

[chris]

Well, I've been here for three weeks, climbing from Tioga Pass to Whitney, and here is my conditions report for the Eastern and High Sierra as of today.

 

The snow is melting incredibly fast, though the snowpack is still above average. From the Palisades to the north significant snow can be found from 10,000 feet and higher.

As of June 1, the snowpack was still equal to the April 1 annual average snowpack, but incredible heat for the last week of June and first week of July melted things FAST. Although the Whitney region received above average snowfall this past winter, it still had a lower snowpack than farther north, and the snow line is respectively higher. The monsoon season is upon us and thunderstorms can be expected in the afternoon whenever a humid weather front comes in from the Pacific.

 

The mozzies, sand-flys, and other insects that bite are vicious but unpredictable. Last week in the Whitney Portal you could be bled to death. This week I was bit once in eight hours. Better to bring the bug-dope then risk your sanity.

 

In the Whitney region, the trail is almost snow-free all the way to Iceberg lake. The deep snowpack that had filled the mountaineers route is now ice in the upper 1000' of the lower and upper gullies. Climbers ascending Day, Keeler, or the East face/buttress routes of Whitney are recommended to cary crampons and/or ice axes for the descent down the Mountaineers route.

 

Further north, the low elevation snowpack makes for excellent approaches to the alpine rock routes. Bring light crampons and ski poles to reach Middle Pal, Temple Crag, anything in Palisade Basin, or similar elevations and basin in the High Sierra. Conness has snow as low as Saddlebag Lakes, making for a wet, sloppy descent after climbing. U-Notch, V-Notch, and North Couloir on North Peak are still primarily neve, but should be melting down to ice fast - I'm expecting these to be in condition within a week to 10 days from now.

 

If anyone has any specific questions about conditions in the area, feel free to send me a PM.