Mt Baker: Easton Gl / Boulder Gl rts - conditions?

[Strider13]

Hi,

 

I would much appreciate if somebody could post the current conditions for the Easton Glacier or Boulder Glacier routes on the Mt. Hood.

We are (a team of 2) considering one of them for this weekend.

Is there a big avalanche danger there currently?

 

Or may be you could recommend some other grade 2 or 3 route on Mt. Baker with the good conditions now?

 

Thanks in advance!

Strider

[tleaf]

Updated conditions have been posted on this site.

 

http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/mt_baker_climbing_notes.shtml

[octavius]

 

I climbed it via Easton yesterday following the standard route. The hardest part was getting from the trail head to the low camp... the trail is still all snow. There is a light trail starting on the Easton glacier you can follow most of the way. Be prepared skirt some cravasses. The trail gets much lighter near the crater and beyond it. We wanded most of the Easton glacier and were glad we did when we descended in clouds and near whiteout conditions. Didn't see any avalanche conditions or rock fall on the route.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

I climbed the Boulder Cleaver/Glacier route a few weeks ago. It was in great shape with some crevasses opening up. We avoided the Bergshrund by going a more direct route under the summit , but I suspect that variation is "out" by now.

[SPS]

I went up the Easton last Friday/Saturday (6/23 to 6/24). Had to park about a 7 minute walk from the trailhead due to snow. Melting out quickly. We went directly up the stream to get onto the Railroad grade, avoiding the trail, on the way up. This worked fine. One the way down, we used the trail which was getting easier to follow. However, there are a couple sections of large deadfall. Overall, I found going up the river to get to the RR easier.

 

The route is in great condition. The little piece of teh headwall this route touches is still snow covered so no ice to worry about yet. Crevasses are mostly covered over and easily avoidable. Our only problem was not heading down from the summit until 11 whereupon we were sinking up to our knees in snow. Should have been on the way down two hours earlier than that.

 

Also, as always, I'd recommend going Fri/Sat or some other variation on Sat/Sun as the number of people coming in on Saturday was as staggering as ever.

 

You can see pictures at:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/seanpatricksullivan/

[Dannible]

Me and a friend climbed the Squak Glacier (east of the Easton) and traversed over to the Easton around 9,500' to top out on the Roman Wall last night. We descended the Easton. There are several large crevasses above 8,000' and it looked like a couple of snow bridges have recently melted out, and others are getting close. I punched through one, and heard another make some noise as I crossed it. We found that by staying to the right on the Roman Wall one must cross around and over a few crevasses on steep snow, which we both agreed was more interesting and fun than just going straight up on the boot path. This might not be an option for long though. We started up around 10pm and post holed for the last 1,000' or so, but on the way down only post holed a few times. Start around 1AM and the snow should be firm for ascent and decent (crampons needed).

I really liked going up the Squak and down the Easton. The approach to the Squak only takes a couple of hours, and by coming down on the railroad grade you get a change of scenery on the way down. Start up the Scott Paul Trail, which at this time of year will be quickly lost in the snow. Follow streams uphill and hike to the top of a ridge that parallels the railroad grade to the east. From here the route will be clear. The west side of the squak is crevasse free right now. Like the others said, the trail to the Easton is mostly snow covered and hard to keep track of at times.

[octavius]

SPS Wrote : We went directly up the stream to get onto the Railroad grade, avoiding the trail, on the way up. This worked fine. One the way down, we used the trail which was getting easier to follow. However, there are a couple sections of large deadfall. Overall, I found going up the river to get to the RR easier.

My group did something similiar on 6/20 & 6/21, though I wouldn't say we found it easier. We crossed the stream and followed it a few hundred yards, then started moving uphill and wound up on lower southern tip of the RR rigde, and had to do some scrambling (3rd & 4th class) to get up to the RR ridge itself. I'm curious how you did that part? Perhaps we left the stream too early, though we didn't see any way up to the ridge further upstream.

 

Regards,

Octavius

Edited June 29, 2006 by octavius